Team Sundown's Charles Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 Ok this my first time tring to design a box. So i'm looking for some advise on this design. The box is 14H x 39w x 18 D 3.39 cu ft atfer speaker & port displacement (1.70 cu ft per speaker) 50 sq of port area (14.75 sq per cu) tuned to 35 hz (4" w x 25" L Question start here!!! 1)Did I do the port right? Its 4" wide x 14.5" L and then branches off to 2" w x 10.5" L (both ways) 2)Are the kerfs the right size? I started with a sloted port. Then measured back 2"(half the port opening) to start the bend. I did the same thing to the inside port. will this keep my port size =. 3) Do I need to 45 the other two corners? I did the corners close to the port. Also are they done right? I also measured back 2" from the inside corners to get the size of the 45's 4)Are the bracing i got good enouch? Did I go over borad on the bracing and how do i get the dispacement on it? I don't want to below 1.5 cu ft per driver. also will the bracing effect my tuning alot? The braceing is 3/4 mdf with the spaces cut out. I'm tring to keep the port from flexxing as well as the walls. The brace in the port will 1/2 in dia going thru 3/4 mdf. All will be rounded over. 1993 Mazda Mx-3 Subs: 2 18" DC Audio Lvl 4 D.7 Highs amp: Sundown SAX-100.4 Sub amp: Sundown SAZ-3000D Electrical:Kinetik 1200 under hood, 2-Kinetik 2400 rear All 1/0 KnuKonceptz Wire Power/Ground, Big 3, 8Ga Speaker Wire, KnuKonceptz Karma RCA's Dampening: 120sqft 80Mil Thick Sound Destroyer Mat Goal: 150 DB 149.9 Street Bass
Noobtastic14 Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 looks good!! i don't think you need the dowel rod in the center of the port and your rear port kurf bends look thicker for some reason? I would not 45 those two internal corners, but it never hurts to add as long as its calculated. I hate designing those 2 into 1 ports so i wont cmt on that, but I'm sure someone on here has experience and will drop their .02 -Drew I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
Team Sundown's Charles Posted December 11, 2008 Author Report Posted December 11, 2008 looks good!! i don't think you need the dowel rod in the center of the port and your rear port kurf bends look thicker for some reason? I would not 45 those two internal corners, but it never hurts to add as long as its calculated. I hate designing those 2 into 1 ports so i wont cmt on that, but I'm sure someone on here has experience and will drop their .02-Drew Thank Drew the dowel rod will be to brace the top & bottom baffles from flexxing. I got to say that this box is for 2 DC Lvl 4 Xl's on 1500 rms on each. 1993 Mazda Mx-3 Subs: 2 18" DC Audio Lvl 4 D.7 Highs amp: Sundown SAX-100.4 Sub amp: Sundown SAZ-3000D Electrical:Kinetik 1200 under hood, 2-Kinetik 2400 rear All 1/0 KnuKonceptz Wire Power/Ground, Big 3, 8Ga Speaker Wire, KnuKonceptz Karma RCA's Dampening: 120sqft 80Mil Thick Sound Destroyer Mat Goal: 150 DB 149.9 Street Bass
Decaf Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 1)Did I do the port right? Its 4" wide x 14.5" L and then branches off to 2" w x 10.5" L (both ways)looks fine, ditch the dowel 2)Are the kerfs the right size? any kerf is better than none usually... its up to u the size... if you mean the radius vs how many cuts u never mentioned that I started with a sloted port. Then measured back 2"(half the port opening) to start the bend. I did the same thing to the inside port. will this keep my port size =. so long as u are measuring down the middle of the port(s), not the length of the wood used 3) Do I need to 45 the other two corners? I did the corners close to the port. Also are they done right? I also measured back 2" from the inside corners to get the size of the 45's.... 45s are 45s... they can be 2" or 6", ur call, looks fine to me... why not just put 45s in all corners or just use resin to make the 45s smaller but yeild to same loss in volume as 2 with wood borad on the bracing and how do i get the dispacement on it? I don't want to below 1.5 cu ft per driver. also will the bracing effect my tuning alot? The braceing is 3/4 mdf with the spaces cut out. I'm tring to keep the port from flexxing as well as the walls. The brace in the port will 1/2 in dia going thru 3/4 mdf. All will be rounded over. mdf is not the best brace per sa... that would be fine in a sealed box... but personally, id just use dowel, 2x4s, or all thread from port wall to front, and port wall to side... the woofers will be supported most by the sides of the box and port in ur design... plus its much easier to cut 2 dowel rods and glue them then make that brace and figure out its displacement... and the dowels and allthread are already rounded
Boon Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 Don't put the dowel in your port. The mdf is already braced enough by the walls of the port and the dowel is just inviting turbulence in the port. 10.x volts fo' life!
Team Sundown's Charles Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Posted December 12, 2008 Don't put the dowel in your port. The mdf is already braced enough by the walls of the port and the dowel is just inviting turbulence in the port. thanks for te advise 1993 Mazda Mx-3 Subs: 2 18" DC Audio Lvl 4 D.7 Highs amp: Sundown SAX-100.4 Sub amp: Sundown SAZ-3000D Electrical:Kinetik 1200 under hood, 2-Kinetik 2400 rear All 1/0 KnuKonceptz Wire Power/Ground, Big 3, 8Ga Speaker Wire, KnuKonceptz Karma RCA's Dampening: 120sqft 80Mil Thick Sound Destroyer Mat Goal: 150 DB 149.9 Street Bass
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