2,200 Watts Rms For $105

[raytard]

i was reading through this like "arent reds 40A? i def have 4 on my amp and they say 40A"

makes sense that a 1000wrms amp has 120a of fusing... on the other hand that 80A fuse is sayin your random korean amp does maybe 750-800rms@1ohm

by all means, buy it, clamp it, prove us wrong

or spend 279$ and get an AQ2200 that will actually do 2200rms @1ohm, its a better deal than getting 2 of those imported to get less power, if you do get it, dont expect it to even do 1000watts even if your voltage stays up and theyre tuned perfectly, and thats assuming damn good effeciency

[Boon]

Power= Voltage x Current, can't argue with that. But, somehow some amps (the AB VFL 100.1, for example) seem to make more power than their fuse size would suggest. Could the reason pertain to the fact that we're not asking these amps to produce direct current for any length of time? I mean, a bass note is a series of vibrations where that amp is asked to move the sub "back and forth" and not forth, forth, forth.... That tiny space between vibrations gives the amp's capacitors to charge to a relatively higher level, and as we all know, capacitors can produce lots of current very fast.

The amp technically is telling the sub to go 'forth forth forth' - each half of the output drives the cone in the opposite direction. 1 half tells it to go up, the other half tells it to go down. So indeed, while 1 half of the output is idle, the other half is using the power. The coil is always being driven, otherwise you would be relying on the woofer's suspension to bring the cone back to the middle each time

Besides all that, wattage is just a time/energy thing. If you're putting out 1000J/s (1000w) then you're going to need at least 1000J/s coming in.

reinke, would you like to go into detail about your testing methods? I don't know a lot of people that know how to accurately test the true output of an amplifier.

[Ben Building]

Lol ROE is wrong, and so are you I guess if your running 3 25 amp fuses.

Most the time orange color atc fuses are 40 amps each, greens are 30 amp, white/clear is 25 amp, yellow is 20 amp, red is 10 amp.

The amps are rated at 120 amps, and will do well over 1000 wrms daily at 1 ohm, 12.5 volts, and are rated for 1500rms @ 1ohm at 12.5 volts.

Amps are rated per usac rules, put them on a solid electrical system the will out perform their rated rms power and be less stressfull on the amp.

Edit for amp specs from american bass: http://www.americanbassusa.com/front/showc...aspx?fileid=181

You are right, Bro, and I am an asshole. The American Bass VFL 100.1 comes with 3 40 amp fuses, not 3 25 amp fuses. Here's the business end of the VFL:

The comparison between Amp X and the VFL 100.1 wouldn't be even since the VFL is fused to draw 40 more amps of current. Unless we can eliminate the fuse as a variable by putting both amps behind 80 amp fuses?

[audiofanaticz]

You are right, Bro, and I am an asshole. The American Bass VFL 100.1 comes with 3 40 amp fuses, not 3 25 amp fuses. Here's the business end of the VFL:

The comparison between Amp X and the VFL 100.1 wouldn't be even since the VFL is fused to draw 40 more amps of current. Unless we can eliminate the fuse as a variable by putting both amps behind 80 amp fuses?

No reason to call yourself a asshole. Lol Just want the real facts on the table, I wish AB was that effiecent to do 1500 wrms from 75 amps of fusing, but that not the case.

You could try putting the 100.1 on 80amps of fusing, but most likely you will blow the fuses everytime you try to get full power out of it, you would almost have to clamp the amp then roll the volume up til the fuses blow to see what the amp will do on 80 amps, most likely it will still put out more power then the amp X

A better comparison maybe a ab 80.1, but againt that is fused 10 amps higher then the amp X above. http://www.americanbassusa.com/front/showc...aspx?fileid=291