Twigz Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Only if you can keep the impedence down. It's not going to do 4K if your impedence rise is up to 4 ohms like it will be in most cases. It will probably do the 4K if you wire it under 1 ohm and the rise is at 1 ohm. That is the only way it's going to do that power. It's not just the Cruch amp that's any amp for that matter.On another note I would do part of the big 3 yourself. I would run a ground to chasis, more than likely you already have your 0 guage power run, and then let the shop that puts in your alt run the wire from the alt to the battery. If you battery is in the trunk like I think that most or all Cobalts are then I would just run the wire up into the engine compartment near where the alt is and let the mechanice hook it up to the alt. As for a secondary battery I would just do that yourself too. It's not hard to put another battery in the trunk and wire it to the amp/other battery. Yah, im not looking to get the 4kwrms out of the amp i'm happy with 3k thats why I got the amp in the 1st place. He told me I can't run stock battery with the Big 111 and the Kinetic, unless i get a tool I forget what it's called the main reason for a shop doing it is warranty, I only had my car for a year, and I got 4 more years to pay it off before I can do w.e I wan't to it. Edited January 13, 2009 by Twigz Quote Fear The Quack! Shot at 2007-08-19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightshade Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 He told me I can't run stock battery with the Big 111 and the Kinetic, unless i get a tool I forget what it's called Like hell you can't. I don't know who told you that but they're dead wrong. Maybe he was talking about a battery isolator, but that's not completely necessary. In fact I've never even seen one used in a setup before. You are absolutely fine to run the stock battery and aftermarket Kinetik in parallel with the big three. There will be no problems at all! Quote 2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo 1 Sundown Audio SCV2000 1 Sundown Audio X15 V2 1 XS Power D3100 Audio Control LC6i Stock Deck 146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz 2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore ChampionHighest NSPL Scores to date:154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigz Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Like hell you can't. I don't know who told you that but they're dead wrong. Maybe he was talking about a battery isolator, but that's not completely necessary. In fact I've never even seen one used in a setup before. You are absolutely fine to run the stock battery and aftermarket Kinetik in parallel with the big three. There will be no problems at all! Yah that's what it is a battery Isolator. See, I hate shops cuz I come on here for advice, and than I go there and they tell me everything is wrong, and I need this, and that, and my alt isnt 250A, and i wont see 3kwrms out of my amp unless i spend $900 on equipment, and i been in this game since I was in high school and I've learned a lot and I don't have hands on experience, but I done lots of research. a battery isolator is he told me $70 bucks not including the install. From what I know is, my battery in the trunk turns on my car, Running 0 gauge positive to positive negative to negative to the Kinetic, leaving the stock alone, should not cause any cancel, or shortage or anything like that, why he's telling me I need two of the same batteries I don't know oh he told me to get a yellowtop over Kinetic lol. Edited January 13, 2009 by Twigz Quote Fear The Quack! Shot at 2007-08-19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotFI? Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 i bought a 175 amp alt to replace the stock 60 amp alt thats in my 1997 civic hatchback. same problem, kind of hard to get in there to install it by yourself. plus, i rather just drop it off to have it installed. i went to my local mechanic. IMO i wouldnt have a audio guy install a alt, thats just me. when i dropped off my civic at the shop, i had the 0 ga. cable already bolted to the alt so when i picked the car up, all i had to do is run the rest of the cable to the batt. or in your sitsuation, have the mechanic run the rest of the cable to the + of the batt if its too tight. my shop charged me $130. it was well worth the headache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigz Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) i bought a 175 amp alt to replace the stock 60 amp alt thats in my 1997 civic hatchback. same problem, kind of hard to get in there to install it by yourself. plus, i rather just drop it off to have it installed. i went to my local mechanic. IMO i wouldnt have a audio guy install a alt, thats just me.when i dropped off my civic at the shop, i had the 0 ga. cable already bolted to the alt so when i picked the car up, all i had to do is run the rest of the cable to the batt. or in your sitsuation, have the mechanic run the rest of the cable to the + of the batt if its too tight. my shop charged me $130. it was well worth the headache. Ok, jus got off the phone with T&K Soundwerkz, he said labor would be 6 hours, and i'm looking at $200-$300 dollars. fuck that lol. He said it would take 2 hours to install the alternator. They would have to do all this other stuff as well with the 0 gauge upgrade and he told me parts as well, $130 aint bad, I think i'm going to go to a mechanic and have them install the alt. I really hate having to rely on shops when I get my alt installed by the mechanic will they know how to sodder the 0 gauge to the alt and than I can have them drill holes and I can run the wire and finish connecting everything myself? how much ft of 0 gauge wire do I need to run from the alt to the Kinetic in the trunk? That's also gonna be a factor to consider because it would be stupid to have them sodder the 0 gauge to the alt but not have enough length to connect the terminals to the Kinetic. Edited January 13, 2009 by Twigz Quote Fear The Quack! Shot at 2007-08-19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01xtreme Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Ok, jus got off the phone with T&K Soundwerkz, he said labor would be 6 hours, and i'm looking at $200-$300 dollars.fuck that lol. He said it would take 2 hours to install the alternator. They would have to do all this other stuff as well with the 0 gauge upgrade and he told me parts as well, $130 aint bad, I think i'm going to go to a mechanic and have them install the alt. I really hate having to rely on shops when I get my alt installed by the mechanic will they know how to sodder the 0 gauge to the alt and than I can have them drill holes and I can run the wire and finish connecting everything myself? how much ft of 0 gauge wire do I need to run from the alt to the Kinetic in the trunk? That's also gonna be a factor to consider because it would be stupid to have them sodder the 0 gauge to the alt but not have enough length to connect the terminals to the Kinetic. I wouldn't count on a mechanic shop knowing how to solder large gauge wire like that. Most likely they are just going to crimp on any terminals they use. and maybe Im just missing something, but I've never seen an alternator that needs the charging wire soldered on. They usually have a terminal with a nut, or some other type of connector. Quote My System: Pioneer AVH-P3200BT 4-Dayton 7 inch reference series (front doors) 8-Onkyo 3/4 inch tweeters (dash) 1-Sundown Audio 100.4D (mids/highs) 2-18" BTL's (for now) Crescendo 3kwp (for sale) Complete rebuild coming soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollin Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 x2 justin soldered on? Quote The only way to get smarter is by playing a smarter opponent.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigz Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 thanks for all the feed back guys, im waitin on Rob to get back to me about the alternator, after that I think im just gonna sit tight until I can get sum people to help that lives close by. Quote Fear The Quack! Shot at 2007-08-19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devsmazduh Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 from what ive seen. most shops are extrememly over-priced, take too long, and for me, i dont like having other people work on my stuff. cuz if something goes wrong, you dont know how everything is wired. it just makes it too much of a hassle...but thats for me lol Quote ill cut out yo eyelids and give ya nothin but sleeping pills... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kylecm85 Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 i would have a mechanic do the alt just for the simple fact that if the guy at the shop told u 2 hours with out even looking at the car and where the alt is mounted. I have been working at a shop for 2 and a half years and have done maybe 2 alts. The mechanic can do that part alot faster. But if the guy told u 300 for everything including parts that is a pretty good deal my shop would charge around 360 for labor not including parts. But if u find someone that knows what tey are doing and is willing to teach u i would do it that way. Quote 94 lincoln mark viii h/u: kenwood kvt 614 Excelon comps: alpine type x amps: mtx 1501d mtx 4004 sub:2 DC lv4 12 wiring jl audio 0awg 8 awg sub jl audio 4 awg for mid and highs amp myspace.com/kylecm85 carstereolexington.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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