creyc Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I've seen articles describing the big-3 procedure say conflicting things regarding whether or not to use the frame as your source of ground. (assuming your vehicle has a frame) On one hand its a large, solid conductor with tons of cross sectional area, that runs the length of the car. On the other hand, neither I, nor most people I know drill holes in the floor and route the amp ground wire to the frame in the back. Instead, most people use a large chassis bolt. (seat, seatbelt, cargo hook, etc..) Here lies my concern. The chassis and frame are connected together with rubber bumpers, and a few bolts. Not exactly the best electrical connection in stock form. To me that seems best to just skip the frame altogether and use the chassis for the grounds in the big-3. I'm even considering strapping the chassis and frame together underneath the car with some 1/0 near the amplifiers, to utilize both chassis AND frame. (and likewise up front) What are your opinions? Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 If you're gonna ground your equipment to the chassis/body of the vehicle then yes you should upgrade the grounds under the hood to the chassis/body. If you're gonna ground to the frame then yes you should upgrade the grounds under the hood to the frame. Most cars do not have a frame though. They're typically only found in trucks & SUVs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IAMBUMP Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 your body mounts are rubber, not metal rubber doesnt flow current like metal Quote If you've been doing something for 20 years, does that mean what you do it right??? __________________________________ Want: 2x Phoenix Gold RSD65CS Comp Amp Undecided AA Havoc AQ 1200 knu wiring set scew lugs for all connections Alpine IDA-X303 2v preout --this goes under the seat. Have: Alpine tape deck w/ Benzi Box and 6 disc changer Check out my Toyota build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creyc Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 your body mounts are rubber, not metal rubber doesnt flow current like metal That's one point I mentioned in the post. So why does this guide recommend using the frame: http://www.gmtruckhq.com/sound-security/bi...pgrade-842.html And Derrick824, good point. That's how I ran my big 3, to the chassis. I was wondering if I can improve upon this. Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pstone11 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Well. if you're unsure just pony up and run your grounds from the front battery to the back.. Especially if it's a unibody or subframe car. It's only 20-100ish extra $$ for the extra wire, and it takes the guesswork out of it.. Quote Check out StoneSounds to see my recent builds.Or look at the Flying White Facebook Page! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creyc Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I plan to, down the line. But I've got a long list of things to buy right now so I'm trying to perform as many smart, cost effective solutions as possible before I go all out on nice-to-haves. (p.s. steel is a pretty crappy conductor of electricity after looking it up!!) Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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