wL<3bass Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Steel is a very poor conductor compared to copper, keep it out of the current path completely IMO.You can find copper bolts however it's still not as good as bringing the wire out through a hole and straight to the amp. Voltage drop on the speaker side of the amp isn't as crucial as the 12v side because you're dealing with higher voltages and much less current but every little bit helps! That's why I use pure copper homemade terminals for my subs. 1/8" thick by 3/4" wide. thats exactly what i thought. i have heard crimping is for pussy's and all kind of stuff..... now im lost Crimping is actually better.....it doesn't look as nice and it doesn't always hold aswell....bet its better current flow wise....I always crimp mine with vise grips and then solder. Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creyc Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 (edited) Actually soldering is for pussies who can't properly crimp a lil' 1/0 terminal. Try crimping a connector for a 750 kcmil cable, some compression connectors use up to 10 TONS of pressure! Granted we use this nifty $3000 tool Kidding aside, a solid copper-on-copper crimp connection with no solder IS a better electrical connection than using solder. If you're having trouble getting a good crimp connection and you do a lot of these a crimping tool will be a lifesaver! Leave the solder for pipes and small low-current connections guys! Edited February 12, 2009 by creyc Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 How about multiple runs of cable from the same terminal? Doesn't the terminal have a limit on how much current it puts out? I think there is a bottle neck affect there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Eh regardless of current flow I'm going to keep soldering mine.....never posed any problems for me. Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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