Moore941 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 So in the next few months i was thinking about buying another 12w7 but now im debating on going with a single Fi BL18, Just a couple opinions on what u guys think the box i have drawn up for the Fi sub is 6.5ft3 tuned to 37hz and the amp i would use is an autotek 1400.1 mean machine, is that enough amp or would i need more because i have it on one jl now and its only turned a quarter way up and it pushes the w7 almost to its limit so i believe its a true amp, so any input u guys have would be sweet. 2000 White Dodge Durango 5.9L Flowmaster 40 Series through 2 1/2" with and open cat. 1 Dc lvl5 18 4 6.5 seleniums and 2 D200 Selenium Horns on Rockford 500.2 Big three upgrade and a kinetik HC1800 in the back with all 1/0g knu wire shootin for 145+
Moore941 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 Nothing..... 2000 White Dodge Durango 5.9L Flowmaster 40 Series through 2 1/2" with and open cat. 1 Dc lvl5 18 4 6.5 seleniums and 2 D200 Selenium Horns on Rockford 500.2 Big three upgrade and a kinetik HC1800 in the back with all 1/0g knu wire shootin for 145+
troy Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 more power on either sub. either way you will need to upgade amps. imo. ive put 4000 rms on a btl no prob. i realy dont care for jl subs but being rated at 750 a peice you will need a new amp. being the amp isnt cea compliant then i highly doubt that ti puts out a true 1400 anyway. retarded build on the way..... 2000 bagged s10 2 hdc3 15s aq2200 aq4x90 stinger/knu wire optima batteries 220 amp alt fosgate hu/mids and highs
Sable Nave Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 I would go with the FI BTL 18" and get a new amp bro, as Troy stated, if its not CES 2006 compliant, probably not putting out what it says it is Car 1996 Sable LS 8,000K Bi-Xenon HID's Pioneer Premier DEX-P1R Diamond Audio D351, Diamond Audio D362i, Diamond D3TAK off Kicker ZX200.4 Custom 15" 13w7 motor, 3.5" aluminum coils dual 1 ohm off NV-AM25001 Dynamat Dynaliner Second Skin Damplifier Pro Stock 130A Alternator My Build Truck 1995 Ford F-150 Flareside XLT 10,000K Bi-Xenon HID's, 15,000K Bi-Xenon HID's Kicker KS6502, KS400 off Pioneer Premier PRS-D4100F Truck Build Ref(s) Rogers, Jared, Mikesmith0890, Twigz, DHFHades, BASS14, Solo_X18, mrafrica, camino_1to3, kickerassman [speakerman9000] 5:43 pm: if sony sucks so bad how come my amps still work when i had 3 12s on it [capalass23] 11:27 pm: wow u grand man poopin out babys like hto cakes [KevinniveK] can u have sex later please hes helping me
Moore941 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 I would go with the FI BTL 18" and get a new amp bro, as Troy stated, if its not CES 2006 compliant, probably not putting out what it says it is well not trying to diss your opinion but im pretty sure it does cuz my buddy has an 05 series 3000.1 mean machine and it deff makes way more than the rated so im pretty sure im making at least the stated power, but yea i think im gonna go with Fi bl18 my main goal is to retain all the rows of seats and have some decent bang but i refuse to buy shit products lol thx for the input 2000 White Dodge Durango 5.9L Flowmaster 40 Series through 2 1/2" with and open cat. 1 Dc lvl5 18 4 6.5 seleniums and 2 D200 Selenium Horns on Rockford 500.2 Big three upgrade and a kinetik HC1800 in the back with all 1/0g knu wire shootin for 145+
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