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What Is Wrong With My Subwoofer Wiring?


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I have it hooked up, well I took it out of the car. I tried it on 2 different amps, one I KNOW is working at 1 ohm (hifonics 1200d) and my sub wouldn't play. The Hifonics would immediately go into protect mode when the music started to hit the bass. The DMM says .7 ohm, maybe something is messed up. Here is how I have it wired:

wiring.gif

(it was originally this)

1_2ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif

But now come to think of it, I might have mixed it up, with the 1st postive and 2nd negative connecting to the positive output on the box. and then the 1st negative and 2nd positive connecting to the negative output on the box. I Don't know if thats what I did, but would either of the ways those were wired, do that to the amp?

I wouldn't think the first one would, would it?

Also, how would I take the sub out of my box? what is the best and easiest way to do it?

It is flush mount so it's pretty tight. What way do you guys do it...?

2002 ford explorer

200 amp rewound alt

single 18" Fi btl fully loaded

2 1750's

2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts

2 ought wiring

cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693

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ill make it simple for next time

parallel dvd wiring of 2ohm sub to 1 ohm load

connect both + sub terminals then go to amp +(however u please, with two equal length wires, or a jumper)

same with negative

all you are doing is giving the electricity 2 paths, instead of 1 path.... thus lowerin the resistance or ohm load(in lamens terms)

both pictures are fine above are correct parallel wiring

some 2ohmdvc subs will read 1.4-2ohm on each terminal, so half that... and u get .7-1ohm, so trust ur instruments, but dont trust your wiring, double check everything, especially when using a box terminal

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ill make it simple for next time

parallel dvd wiring of 2ohm sub to 1 ohm load

connect both + sub terminals then go to amp +(however u please, with two equal length wires, or a jumper)

same with negative

all you are doing is giving the electricity 2 paths, instead of 1 path.... thus lowerin the resistance or ohm load(in lamens terms)

both pictures are fine above are correct parallel wiring

some 2ohmdvc subs will read 1.4-2ohm on each terminal, so half that... and u get .7-1ohm, so trust ur instruments, but dont trust your wiring, double check everything, especially when using a box terminal

thanks a ton. I opened it up, it looked like the - and + might have been touching after i tightened them down! so ill drill another hole a little farther apart. Hopefully that will do it!

2002 ford explorer

200 amp rewound alt

single 18" Fi btl fully loaded

2 1750's

2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts

2 ought wiring

cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693

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Share on other sites

ill make it simple for next time

parallel dvd wiring of 2ohm sub to 1 ohm load

connect both + sub terminals then go to amp +(however u please, with two equal length wires, or a jumper)

same with negative

all you are doing is giving the electricity 2 paths, instead of 1 path.... thus lowerin the resistance or ohm load(in lamens terms)

both pictures are fine above are correct parallel wiring

some 2ohmdvc subs will read 1.4-2ohm on each terminal, so half that... and u get .7-1ohm, so trust ur instruments, but dont trust your wiring, double check everything, especially when using a box terminal

well said :good:

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2008 Hyundai Sonata

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bump, is the reason the amp went into protect because the negative and positive speaker wires might have been touching? or could it be that the sub is damaged?

2002 ford explorer

200 amp rewound alt

single 18" Fi btl fully loaded

2 1750's

2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts

2 ought wiring

cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693

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Share on other sites

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