troy Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 just wondering is it a better idea to upgrade the speakers in the door first or the by9s in the rear deck first.do have a pair of subs to be installed soon retarded build on the way..... 2000 bagged s10 2 hdc3 15s aq2200 aq4x90 stinger/knu wire optima batteries 220 amp alt fosgate hu/mids and highs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eliassami5 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 the front stage would be best since the rears will prob be drowned out by the bass, plus the fronts are the closest and will make the biggest impression on the driver and the passenger. 91' Jeep Cherokee - The Heep Just Empty Every Pocket 96' Volvo 960 - The B◘x [sPL_4_U] HiFonics - Alpine Pioneer - Clarion Infinity - Kicker KnuKonceptz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 ok the exact answer i expected. thanks retarded build on the way..... 2000 bagged s10 2 hdc3 15s aq2200 aq4x90 stinger/knu wire optima batteries 220 amp alt fosgate hu/mids and highs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 If the truck in your pic is what your installing in. I would just concern myself with a component set.(a set of 5.25,6, or 6.5 inch mids and a set of tweeters and crossovers in one package) and maybe 2 10 inch subwoofers behind the seat sealed or 1 10 inch sub ported. You will also need 2 amps. 1 for your subs and 1 for your component set and change your starter battery to a deep cycle. Use 4 gauge wire from the front to the back unless you are going over 800 watts for your sub amp. Fuse the wire within 18 inches of the battery. I think thats about it. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 no this is actually a question my freind drake posted. its a 99 civic he was asking about. the dime in the pic is already fully modded. retarded build on the way..... 2000 bagged s10 2 hdc3 15s aq2200 aq4x90 stinger/knu wire optima batteries 220 amp alt fosgate hu/mids and highs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Well the same example still applies. In that car I would do like I said and not really worry about the rear speakers. Put the mids in the doors or make little kick panels for them and mount the tweeter in the dash fireing up at the windshield if Honda still puts their tweeters up the. Take Hondas out and put yours in or if you make kick panels you can design them to hold the tweeter and the woofer. With the rite power and amp the component set should have you covered 80 hertz and up unless you want a midbass. Now to the back in my Accords I usually took out the speakers in the rear deck so my bass would come through better unless I wanted to drive around with my rear seat down all the time. You really don't need rear speakers in my opinion. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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