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Amp To Match My Subs


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I want to buy 2 level 3 15's from DC.

Will a saz-1500 be sufficient for this application?

Also, if i were to get that amp should i get dual 2 or 4 ohm woofers?

I could wire the dual 2 at a 2 ohm load for 400 watts each.

Or get dual 4 at a 1 ohm load at 750 wats each (is that right? lol)

This is for a daily driver.

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That amp runs 800x1 at 2 ohm

And it runs 1500x1 at 1 ohm

The subs say 600 watt rms and 1200 watt peak

I would say you could run a 1 or 2 ohm load and be fine. You could most likely run a .5 ohm on a burp for comps but I have lost more than a few amps this way.

If you go with the dual 2's you can run 2 or .5 ohm. parallel = .5 ohm and series/parallel = 2 ohm

If you go with the dual 4's you can run 1 or 4 ohm. parallel = 1 ohm and series/parallel = 4 ohm

Hope this helps

Edited by Bunker

J&T DESIGNS

M5

4 Audioque 15's copper coils dropping Audiopipe, and picking up DB DRIVE OKUR

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Yes I have to do it my self I have not done anything of that nature before but it seems easy to do they call it the big 3 upgrade you might want to consider a HO alternator and some battery's as well.

Edited by Bunker

J&T DESIGNS

M5

4 Audioque 15's copper coils dropping Audiopipe, and picking up DB DRIVE OKUR

Powermasters

XS POWER

Dropping MaxxSonics

Pioneer

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you should be o.k. for a now but you should do the big three if nothing else, not sure what car you have but let me tell you it makes a big difference. upgrading your electrical even if your just doing the big three allows your electrical system to work allot easier and also makes things easier on your amp/amps just an all around good idea.

2007 Chevy Impala LS

1 Crescendo 3KWP

1Crescendo C1000/4

2 DC lvl 4 15's with lvl5 dual .7 coils

1Audio Control Matrix

1 Pioneer P880PRS

1 300 amp Iraggi alt

All power runs done with Knu flex 0/1 guage

1 optima yellow top under the hood

1 XS 5100 and two Deka's in the trunk

4 Crescendo MP-8 mid bass drivers

2 DB Drive p5 5 D Pro Audio tweeters

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I cant say yes or no. But this is what has happened to me I fried my good amp and I'm on a back up 600 watt that's not even close to the power I need and my lights will dim a little if it was me I would do it as soon as possible I'm not running my system right now because of it its always better to do it the right way once than to do it 10 times the wrong way.

When it comes to that end I'm out of my zone I am more of a box and sound damping guy people do it all the time and get away with it for a while but it will catch up to you. It did me and cost me a 400 dollar cluster.

Just some things to think about before you do it.

J&T DESIGNS

M5

4 Audioque 15's copper coils dropping Audiopipe, and picking up DB DRIVE OKUR

Powermasters

XS POWER

Dropping MaxxSonics

Pioneer

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what kinda car is it going into g? some i run about 1500 watts with absolutly no drain on my batt... but i would switch the batt from stock anyway because stock batts = no go...

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The set up your talking about would sound great in my Tahoe. Trade you my dog for it. He has one eye but that only makes for bad depth perception so hey so what if he is running into shit, look at it this way he is easy to sneak up ninja style on. (right side only)
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what kinda car is it going into g? some i run about 1500 watts with absolutly no drain on my batt... but i would switch the batt from stock anyway because stock batts = no go...

exactly dont keep the original battery. the shit WILL eventually die. (happens to me all the time)

I run a 1000 watts off a stock alternator (70amps) 99 honda civic and the voltage doesnt drop lower than 13.9, unless im at idle with the lights on then it goes down to 12.9v

Edited by tequila

'99 Civic hatch

18" AA Chaos - 7cuft @ 34hz - 114sq in. port

Mac Audio Fearless ~ 1000wrms @ 2 Ohms

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