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Help With Running Wires


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Multiple wires is just to add more copper for a better flow of juice. Youll have to fuse every + wire.

For wiring it to multiple batts: Just run wire from the + terminal under the hood to the + terminals in the trunk. and ground all the batteries.

you should really have two fuses in the wire if you are connectin batteries

batt....fuse.............................................fuse......batt

if you just have batt......fuse..............................batt

-----------------and you have a short here ^ -------^that battery is still shorting out

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is there like a special battery terminal i need to be able to run multiple out of my main battery under the hood?

yes and no. You can spend money on battery terminals that have multiple 0 guage inputs, which is what i started out doing.

or. what i do now: just get some heavy duty battery terminals from walmart or autozone. I got some from walmart that accepts up to 1 2/0 gauge wire and has two bolts to hold down the top. so i use the one 2/0 part for one wire and bolt wires with ring terminals on the two bolts that hold the top on.

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is there like a special battery terminal i need to be able to run multiple out of my main battery under the hood?

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TNCB

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here's an idea..

If youre lucky enough to have some sort of sideskirt panel on your car like mine...you can fit plenty of wire in them..

DSCN1256.jpg

Power runs..

DSCN2093.jpg

Ground runs..

DSCN2129.jpg

DSCN2127.jpg

DSCN2167.jpg

And the sideskirt goes right over them...never would know theyre there..

DSCN2165.jpg

As for connecting them all...you'll probably want to make/have someone make you some busbars, something along these lines..

DSCN2194-1.jpg

And dont forget the fuses and fuse holders...once you step up to multiple runs in a daily driver...you'll need fuses on each end of your power runs (assuming you have batts in the rear), which really adds up in cost :(

But good luck...and you can find copper for busbars at stormcopper.com ....they have a great selection and good prices imo

Drilling holes in the copper and then tapping them will make life really easy on you rather than bolting the ring terminals to the copper...just have to find some short bolts/cut down some bolts and youre set :)

Edited by Pioneer~Saturn

Team Tupperware

<First dual-alternator 'real' Saturn (pre-2002) on the planet>
(3) 15" Fi SP4's fed by (2) M3a's strapped @ .667
12.75 cubes net @ 25Hz with 200 sq inches of port area (lowz...?)
Stock alt position (custom bracket) 225 amp Mechman

Roof = steel and fiberglass (u mad?)
(2) XS Power D3100's, (2) rhino batts, No battery upfront (for now, smh)
4 power+ 4 ground runs of 1/0-gauge to rear
"If its been done before...you're doing it wrong" : )

"stfu about scores and float $hit..."

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here's an idea..

If youre lucky enough to have some sort of sideskirt panel on your car like mine...you can fit plenty of wire in them..

DSCN1256.jpg

Power runs..

DSCN2093.jpg

Ground runs..

DSCN2129.jpg

DSCN2127.jpg

DSCN2167.jpg

And the sideskirt goes right over them...never would know theyre there..

DSCN2165.jpg

As for connecting them all...you'll probably want to make/have someone make you some busbars, something along these lines..

DSCN2194-1.jpg

And dont forget the fuses and fuse holders...once you step up to multiple runs in a daily driver...you'll need fuses on each end of your power runs (assuming you have batts in the rear), which really adds up in cost :(

But good luck...and you can find copper for busbars at stormcopper.com ....they have a great selection and good prices imo

Drilling holes in the copper and then tapping them will make life really easy on you rather than bolting the ring terminals to the copper...just have to find some short bolts/cut down some bolts and youre set :)

nice set up :)

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DAT HF1000.1 #007 powering a DC lvl4 15

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rebuild coming soon to get a better score :)

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Thanks :) It gets the job done

It was plenty of work...but it's worth it

Team Tupperware

<First dual-alternator 'real' Saturn (pre-2002) on the planet>
(3) 15" Fi SP4's fed by (2) M3a's strapped @ .667
12.75 cubes net @ 25Hz with 200 sq inches of port area (lowz...?)
Stock alt position (custom bracket) 225 amp Mechman

Roof = steel and fiberglass (u mad?)
(2) XS Power D3100's, (2) rhino batts, No battery upfront (for now, smh)
4 power+ 4 ground runs of 1/0-gauge to rear
"If its been done before...you're doing it wrong" : )

"stfu about scores and float $hit..."

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Share on other sites

here's an idea..

If youre lucky enough to have some sort of sideskirt panel on your car like mine...you can fit plenty of wire in them..

DSCN1256.jpg

Power runs..

DSCN2093.jpg

Ground runs..

DSCN2129.jpg

DSCN2127.jpg

DSCN2167.jpg

And the sideskirt goes right over them...never would know theyre there..

DSCN2165.jpg

As for connecting them all...you'll probably want to make/have someone make you some busbars, something along these lines..

DSCN2194-1.jpg

And dont forget the fuses and fuse holders...once you step up to multiple runs in a daily driver...you'll need fuses on each end of your power runs (assuming you have batts in the rear), which really adds up in cost :(

But good luck...and you can find copper for busbars at stormcopper.com ....they have a great selection and good prices imo

Drilling holes in the copper and then tapping them will make life really easy on you rather than bolting the ring terminals to the copper...just have to find some short bolts/cut down some bolts and youre set :)

That all looks great man, but next time you might wanna use all black UV resistant zipties and wire tiedowns. I say next time, and I hope for your sake there is no next time, but most likely after a few summers those will get brittle and break.

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