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Dissassembling My Alternator For Painting.


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sad to see i must say.

and thats a lot of cash spent on that alt too!

makes me wonder whats inside my high priced alt... tho I know it performs well and never failed yet so I got no complaints with it.

it be nice to see a another alt companies review on his alt such asmechman or even mla.

 

 

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Guest Just_Rob

it be nice to see a another alt companies review on his alt such asmechman or even mla.

Even if I wasn't competition, I would have said the same thing. Sad thing is, it's only about the 100th time I've seen it...

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Not that im arguing with you, cause lets face it, my experience here is limited to one single alternator, but how can you tell its only 130A? what gives it away, whats different? is there nothing that could have been done to make it put out more amperage even though it looks (stock?) ?

I did buy it from ebay, is there anything I can do? How can I test it to get a true idea of its actual output? Ive heard something about having it tested with an "AVR"? what the hell is that?

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this scares me...i spent like 400 and chang eon my iraggi.

only bought it because ohio gen and stinger and powermaster (authorized dealer for all of them) said they couldnt help me with an alt for my car, only one i could find was iraggi.

well, ohio said they could build me a 160amp, at the same price as an iraggi 200, sooo....went with iraggi

who's metered these iraggis and seen what they do? i remember steve having a vid a while back at autozone, but that just proves he puts out more than 300, which he could probably do with 4 stock gm alts anyway...

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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who's metered these iraggis and seen what they do? i remember steve having a vid a while back at autozone, but that just proves he puts out more than 300, which he could probably do with 4 stock gm alts anyway...

Main reason autozones and other car part stores cant properly test them is 1) the idiots behind the counter dont know what they are doing, 2) their cheap contraptions they wheel out to your vehicle can only put a 125 amp load on your alternator if they are lucky, so because their cheap machine is limited to a 125 amps your alternator is only working 50% of what its capable of producing.

Ive ran up to 6000rms off my 300amp and had very minimal voltage drop with 2 d3100 batteries. It put out power and works great.

 

 

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Guest Just_Rob

Main reason autozones and other car part stores cant properly test them is 1) the idiots behind the counter dont know what they are doing, 2) their cheap contraptions they wheel out to your vehicle can only put a 125 amp load on your alternator if they are lucky, so because their cheap machine is limited to a 125 amps your alternator is only working 50% of what its capable of producing.

Ive ran up to 6000rms off my 300amp and had very minimal voltage drop with 2 d3100 batteries. It put out power and works great.

Yes, your spot on about them not being able to test them properly. And 2 D3100's will do wonders for voltage drop!! For on vehicle testing we have 1000A portable load bank we use to do all of our on car testing, and we can let it run for hours on end.. Our test dyno is good out to about 390, but we have 2 others we use that are good to 500 amps for off vehicle testing..

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I went to an auto electric company, IE they deal with starts, alternators, and heavy duty electric motors only.... they may be slightly better than autozone although they tell me my cars idle isnt 2400RPM which is what alts are rated at for idle output.... to which i had to reply that my flywheel is larger by far than my alt pulley, meaning my alt pulley is turning way faster than my engine rpm.

Anyway that said, it didnt matter much because they got it to 130A before the belt started slipping...... what does that mean? doesn't the belt start slipping when the load becomes too great to turn to the generator? does that mean its maxed out or just that the machine turning the alt didn't have the HP needed to keep it going?

Now I need to know, So I need to know how I can test this and see what its putting out.

BTW I did contact DC Power about an alt, I could have gotten a 240A im sure (rob can verify?) but at what cost? an iraggi was all I could afford for its "suggested output"

Why are there so many people running iraggi alts and happy with them? no apparent output problems, so what happened with me? did he just randomly decide to give me a bunk piece of shit? or could this alt actually be 240A for some reason?

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Sorry man, I hate to break it to you, that alternator is not brand new and if not 100%, 99.9% used. $525, all I'm going to say is ouch.. Anyone who knows anything about building alternators will tell you the exact same thing too about the parts..

Your right on with your teardown procedures though, we use a torch for most of the alternators that have captured stators. It heats the aluminum up much faster.. 3G & 6G Fords come apart really easy, 4G's are the PITA..

i was waiting for someone to chime in like you :)
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