Sable Nave Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 lol x2 Quote Car 1996 Sable LS 8,000K Bi-Xenon HID's Pioneer Premier DEX-P1R Diamond Audio D351, Diamond Audio D362i, Diamond D3TAK off Kicker ZX200.4 Custom 15" 13w7 motor, 3.5" aluminum coils dual 1 ohm off NV-AM25001 Dynamat Dynaliner Second Skin Damplifier Pro Stock 130A Alternator My Build Truck 1995 Ford F-150 Flareside XLT 10,000K Bi-Xenon HID's, 15,000K Bi-Xenon HID's Kicker KS6502, KS400 off Pioneer Premier PRS-D4100F Truck Build Ref(s) Rogers, Jared, Mikesmith0890, Twigz, DHFHades, BASS14, Solo_X18, mrafrica, camino_1to3, kickerassman [speakerman9000] 5:43 pm: if sony sucks so bad how come my amps still work when i had 3 12s on it [capalass23] 11:27 pm: wow u grand man poopin out babys like hto cakes [KevinniveK] can u have sex later please hes helping me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Performer Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 A+ customer service on demand No joke! Thanks for replying so quickly rusty, If you're thinking a tinsel replacement would be sufficient then by all means I'll take your word for it. I'm just confused about what would cause the tinsel to tighten up like it did? If it would be less of a hassle for me to take care of it then you guys then that's fine. I'd rather not go through the trouble of shipping this heavy bastard off unless the problem is more severe than I can handle. Maybe some of you guys on the forum here can give me a run through on what is involved in replacing them beforehand? For instance, how do I go about removing the dustcap, and re running the tinsels, then how do I replace the dustcap? And most importantly what about glue do I need? Rusty I'll PM you my longitude and latitude and that would be great if you could send me the items I need! And when about are those great looking DC shirts going to be available? Quote CERTIFIED BITCHES!!! Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks' Click to see my build! Proud DC owner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 No, Problemo . I can shoot ya some lead wire and a dustcap or you can ship it to us and we will replace the leads for ya =] hey hey......you didnt offer to replace mine as far as getting the dust cap off....youre going to need a knife/blade. your going to try and slide it under the edge of it, at an angle. work your way around the dc, and make a few passes. when you try and pull it off, its gonna be tough. it will pull like the first layer of cone off since it is paper. for the ca glue...i burned through it with a soldering iron. the tip will quit burning through it after a while, but all you have to do it sand the tip of it. it'll take a minute to get through it. and blow the fumes away. they SMELL and burn the shit outta ur eyes lol. im sure you know how to unsolder the vc from the tinsel. then just pull the old tinsel through the cone. try and get as much glue out as you can, that way when you glue the solder joint back down, it'll clear the dust cap. not quite sure what your vc's are made out of, but rusty said to get an aluminum flux for mine. its kind of a pain in the ass. it'll take you a minute to figure out how to solder it and get a good joint (did for me). after you solder and push the tinsel through the cone, use like a 5 minute epoxy to hold down the joint. dont make it too high, because it will hit the dust cap. need be, grind some of the hardener epoxy down if it doesnt clear. as for gluing the dust cap down, rusty recommended some "goop" to glue it down. i used rtv glue on one, and some "welder" glue from walmart on the other. they both hold fine. rtv made it nice and easy to pull the dustcap back off when i had to resolder it. after that, solder the new tinsel to the terminal, let everything dry, and youre good to go after that! if you have any more questions, just shoot me a pm or something hopefully this helps you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Performer Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) I'm still a bit curious with my situation. I've been doing quite a bit of research on the situation and I've found that alot of people say the reason tinsels break is they "whip the cone" if they are too long, and they break if they are too short. I'm pretty sure when I got the subs that the leads were not too short, because the excursion was fine, and I would have noticed right away just by looking at them. So I can maybe see the leads whipping and that causing it to break, however that doesn't explain why it seems like the lead has been pulled into the cone? I'll just have to just do a full inspection when I pull the dustcap I guess. Atleast now I know why there's the felt above the tinsels now. I'm assuming now that this was what was causing my "popping" sound when that sub was reaching full excursion? Can't wait to get my soldier back on the battlefield. EDIT: Forgot to add that I was reading and one guy suggested putting heatshrink around the tinsel to make it last longer. Is this true or ? Edited April 7, 2009 by The Performer Quote CERTIFIED BITCHES!!! Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks' Click to see my build! Proud DC owner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SundownTL3.2 Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Rusty is a very good guy!!! will never run another sub in my life DC FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT........... THINKING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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