The Performer Posted April 17, 2009 Report Posted April 17, 2009 Yes, that's an electrolytic capacitor, if you solder it back on, make sure your polarity is correct because unlike a non polar cap (bass blockers, X-over) it does need to be soldered in the correct way. Chances are, if that's loose in the amp there's more loose. I've repaired many of good amps, and many of crap amps and one thing that happens alot is the component leads just slip out of the solder joint, or simply break at the component and you have to replace the component entirely. And you can attach amps to your box, you just have to know when it's acceptable and will be sturdy. See how mine's done? if you go to the build you can see how the amp mounting area is completely braced and solid. Quote CERTIFIED BITCHES!!! Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks' Click to see my build! Proud DC owner
Boon Posted April 18, 2009 Report Posted April 18, 2009 NONOONNONOON. Do not solder the old one back on. The legs have snapped for a reason, replace the cap with an identical new one. They're cheap, don't skimp. If you're going to try it yourself, make sure you don't mess up the pad or the through hole plating (if it has any) when you get rid of the old crap. If you heat the joint and push it gently with a needle you should be able to push the left-over leg through the hole and out the other side. Don't force it, when the joint is liquid it should just slide on through. Make sure you remove all the old solder from the joint, some de-soldering braid should help you here. Be quick about it, if you overheat the PCB the tracks will start peeling off it. Quote 10.x volts fo' life!
dwz Posted April 27, 2009 Report Posted April 27, 2009 meade also has a shit load of reinforcement. and actually, theyre mounted to 2x4s hell yeah he does! dude is the genius voice of a generation! Quote
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