dwz Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) Hi! You guys might have remembered my post the other day about my experience blowing two Type-R’s in the course of a month. 2 Alpine Type-R 12” (1242d) – 500wRMS/1500wPeak http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1242/Al...242d&tp=111 2 Alpine M-500 amps – 500wRMS/1200wPeak that isn’t listed anywhere but a few websites (it looks like it’s 500wRMS and 500wMax at first glance) http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500/Al...-500&tp=115 Well, now I leave my headunit EQ at 0db and my bass boost on my amp at 0db as well. I use a multimeter to find the AC voltage, and I’m getting 29.5 AC volts at 80% volume (to not overdrive it). Each sub is wired for 2ohms. Now when I used to have the bass boost up, it sounded way, way louder. It kicked the back of my seat. It pounded my chest, it made everyone look whenever I got near them! And now it makes my water slightly shake. It tickles my back. It’s almost as if I don’t even have subs anymore. I’m wondering if this is normal, or if it could possibly be my headunit. I have a Kenwood MP-332 that doesn’t have subwoofer control. So when I turn it up to 30 (out of 35 max), the voltage on the amps are at 29.5. But does this mean that the volume of the subwoofers is lower on the headunit? If I got a headunit with subwoofer control, and I turned it to +15, wouldn’t my voltage go up too? **THREAD UPDATE** - 4-28 12:30a Omg I found out what the problem was all along.. It was my headunit! I tried to start my car today to find that the battery was dead. Once I jumped it I noticed the amps stayed on after turning the car off. Lo and behold I said, alright enough of this and got an Alpine CDE-102... It sounds probably twice and loud and the speakers sound even better. The best part is that the subs are playing WAYY louder and still getting the same voltage. Guess what, now my headlights and interior lights are brighter and no longer dimming and my car alarm chirps louder. Ridiculous! Well entertaining the idea of getting a 15" BTL now makes me want it! That will be my next upgrade =) Edited April 28, 2009 by dwz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a_steezy Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Hi! You guys might have remembered my post the other day about my experience blowing two Type-R’s in the course of a month. 2 Alpine Type-R 12” (1242d) – 500wRMS/1500wPeak http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1242/Al...242d&tp=111 2 Alpine M-500 amps – 500wRMS/1200wPeak that isn’t listed anywhere but a few websites (it looks like it’s 500wRMS and 500wMax at first glance) http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500/Al...-500&tp=115 Well, now I leave my headunit EQ at 0db and my bass boost on my amp at 0db as well. I use a multimeter to find the AC voltage, and I’m getting 29.5 AC volts at 80% volume (to not overdrive it). Each sub is wired for 2ohms. Now when I used to have the bass boost up, it sounded way, way louder. It kicked the back of my seat. It pounded my chest, it made everyone look whenever I got near them! And now it makes my water slightly shake. It tickles my back. It’s almost as if I don’t even have subs anymore. I’m wondering if this is normal, or if it could possibly be my headunit. I have a Kenwood MP-332 that doesn’t have subwoofer control. So when I turn it up to 30 (out of 35 max), the voltage on the amps are at 29.5. But does this mean that the volume of the subwoofers is lower on the headunit? If I got a headunit with subwoofer control, and I turned it to +15, wouldn’t my voltage go up too? wut...? lol 29.5 volts... you work at best buy right? but you need to properly set the gain and you can use the bass+ on your headunit, just dont over do it Quote '98 Dodge Durango 5.9L 5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs Alpine CDA-9883 Kicker ZX350.4 Kicker KS650's in all doors Kicker 1/0 hyperflex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a_steezy Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 and your amp is a 500 watt amp, not a 1,200 watt amp Quote '98 Dodge Durango 5.9L 5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs Alpine CDA-9883 Kicker ZX350.4 Kicker KS650's in all doors Kicker 1/0 hyperflex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwz Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) wut...? lol 29.5 volts... you work at best buy right?but you need to properly set the gain and you can use the bass+ on your headunit, just dont over do it Yeah but I work at computer Geek Squad so no I'm not certified for car audio. I set it at 29.5 volts so that if I hit 35 on my volume control, it won't hit very far past 31.6 (which is 500w @ 2ohms).... Guys I'm new to this shit... Edited April 27, 2009 by dwz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 your amps were clipping to hell before and being way overdriven, now they are being driven properly yes its quieter, you turned it down, no shit its lower either you deal with it being lower and NOT BLOWING UP, you turn it up and blow stuff up, or upgrade Quote Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc_audio Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Yeah but I work at computer Geek Squad so no I'm not certified for car audio.I set it at 29.5 volts so that if I hit 35 on my volume control, it won't hit very far past 31.6 (which is 500w @ 2ohms).... I have never worked with a headunit that can max its volume and not clip. Chances are if you are turning it to 35 out of 35 you're sending a clipped signal to your amps. Either use an O-scope, (you may be able to get one through best buy, might already have one there) or turn your head unit to 32-33 and use that as you highest volume level, then set your gains with you H/U eq flat. I never use headunit gain or bass boost. I think my H/U bassboost is around 65 hertz (useless). Then then pop in a -3 or 0db (preferably -3) 50hertz tone and set to about 32-33ACVolts. Music won't demand as much as a tone. Then see if everything is working like you want. If you cannot achieve 32-33V then turn gain down and then take BassBoost to +6db (half) and turn up gains until you reach 32-33. I think amp BB remote's are useless. Unless its a frequency booster like RF amps or if you have an RCA inline gain nob, or 360.2. What is your exact enclosure specs? It is always possible that you box isn't up to par. Quote It's all gone! The Celica Build Feedback If I buy something from you, DO NOT USE FEDEX! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwz Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) True. I'll just lower my expectations. I have never worked with a headunit that can max its volume and not clip. Chances are if you are turning it to 35 out of 35 you're sending a clipped signal to your amps. Either use an O-scope, (you may be able to get one through best buy, might already have one there) or turn your head unit to 32-33 and use that as you highest volume level, then set your gains with you H/U eq flat. I never use headunit gain or bass boost. I think my H/U bassboost is around 65 hertz (useless). Then then pop in a -3 or 0db (preferably -3) 50hertz tone and set to about 32-33ACVolts. Music won't demand as much as a tone. Then see if everything is working like you want. If you cannot achieve 32-33V then turn gain down and then take BassBoost to +6db (half) and turn up gains until you reach 32-33. I think amp BB remote's are useless. Unless its a frequency booster like RF amps or if you have an RCA inline gain nob, or 360.2. What is your exact enclosure specs? It is always possible that you box isn't up to par. I'm only turning it up to 30.. MAX... it's like, if someone playin with my radio set it to 35 I didn't want it to mess up my equipment. Thanks for the tips so far! I got the 50hz test tone at: http://binkster.net/extras.shtml .. is it possible that this is different than the ROE ones cause I haven't used that one yet. I'm using http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?sk...d=1204924953327 until I get my second pair of Type-R's and build an enclosure for all 4. Would getting another Pair of the M-500 and Type R's sound much louder? If so how many DBs would that get would ya say? I also wanna mention I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M so the trunk is HUGE and also far away from me. Edited April 27, 2009 by dwz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunker Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 How loud do you want it. Theirs a couple of tricks you could do that's cheap like tune your box to a lower frequency making it seem louder than what it really is. If it were me I would up grade to a higher rating subwoofer instead of 4 subs running 2000 watts in all maybe get 2 or 1 that would do the same rating and get all you can get and if it's not loud enough add another one with the same setup until your happy with it, it would also be easier for you to run 1 2000 watt amp instead of 4 500 watt amps. Quote J&T DESIGNS M5 4 Audioque 15's copper coils dropping Audiopipe, and picking up DB DRIVE OKUR Powermasters XS POWER Dropping MaxxSonics Pioneer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwz Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) How loud do you want it. Theirs a couple of tricks you could do that's cheap like tune your box to a lower frequency making it seem louder than what it really is. If it were me I would up grade to a higher rating subwoofer instead of 4 subs running 2000 watts in all maybe get 2 or 1 that would do the same rating and get all you can get and if it's not loud enough add another one with the same setup until your happy with it, it would also be easier for you to run 1 2000 watt amp instead of 4 500 watt amps. Yeah man I'm grabbin M-500s only because they're 117 bucks (each) with my employee discount. If it's a Best Buy secret, sue me. The Type-R's are 99 bucks (each) with employee discount and 8ga amp kits are 23 bucks. Two sets of dual twist RCAs is 28 bucks. I was thinking of maybe getting 2 15" Fi BTLs but IDK if it would be much louder and also way more expensive than going with 4 Type-R's. Plus I have Alpine everything (except the headunit) Edited April 27, 2009 by dwz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunker Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) You need more than 8 gauge power wire. On the BTL 425.00 ok so now look at your type R's 117.00 each for the price of 4 of those you could have bought a BTL, 2000 watts some people say you can run up to 4000 watts to one but don't quote me on it because I don't own any myself. Edited April 27, 2009 by Bunker Quote J&T DESIGNS M5 4 Audioque 15's copper coils dropping Audiopipe, and picking up DB DRIVE OKUR Powermasters XS POWER Dropping MaxxSonics Pioneer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.