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Sundown Audio

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Posted

I vote RF....I think JL is overrated and not worth the price....also I hopy your putting those XXX6.5 in a sealed POD in the door.....otherwise you wont like the way they sound.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Posted
I vote RF....I think JL is overrated and not worth the price....also I hopy your putting those XXX6.5 in a sealed POD in the door.....otherwise you wont like the way they sound.

yup they're going in pods they're too deep to just mount into a door.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

Posted

the rf is always a solid amp. all jl is made for sq. honestly the amps are about the same quality. both would be a good choice.

retarded build on the way.....

2000 bagged s10

2 hdc3 15s

aq2200

aq4x90

stinger/knu wire

optima batteries

220 amp alt

fosgate hu/mids and highs

Posted

I've always been happy with my RF amps so I vote RF but I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

RF_power_product.gif
Posted
I've always been happy with my RF amps so I vote RF but I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

yea i agree. just which ever you prefer

retarded build on the way.....

2000 bagged s10

2 hdc3 15s

aq2200

aq4x90

stinger/knu wire

optima batteries

220 amp alt

fosgate hu/mids and highs

Posted

I think the Sundown 125x2 would give you a bit more flexibility. 200x2@2 ohms would do good on them, perhaps give them more headroom. If you want to go over the top get another set of those components and give them a DDS2!

DDAudio002-1.jpg

lP lR O Jl lE C T - C G 6

DD 9512G - DD M2A - DDA W - DD S4A - ALPINE W505 - IMPRINT

Posted

Hmm I hadn't thought about sundown, you think 200 would be safe to push them at?

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

Posted

Some speakers do better with more power. I haven't tried your comps but as long as you play it safe you will be ok. I would be more concerned about under powering them and pushing them to their limits. For the cost of the Sundown amp I think it's worth it incase you want to switch it up a bit later.

DDAudio002-1.jpg

lP lR O Jl lE C T - C G 6

DD 9512G - DD M2A - DDA W - DD S4A - ALPINE W505 - IMPRINT

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