FiBTLforlife Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 im going to be doing some fiberglass work to start learning how to work with it a little more and im planning on doing some door pods for my set of RF 6.5 comps. well my main question is when i make the door pods and have them cut, painted and ready to go , how do they stay on? i know this sounds stupid but i really not sure on this. are u suppose to screw them in? or do you have to fiberglass it onto the door itself???? i was trying to keep from fiberglassing it onto the door itself in case i mess up. if this question has been asked on smd before, please lead me the way to the thread, thanks for any advice given mike Quote 2 AQ 10'' HDC3 copper subs 1 3500d AQ amp 146.3db on TL with stock electrical in single cab truck at 32hz RESULT: 1st place at comp, 3rd overall out of 20 cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUNKYOU007 Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 you should mount some bolts into the wood frame of the pod then you can just use nuts and washers to hold them in place. thats what i plan to do. drill you some holes in the frame and countersink the bolts and use some epoxy or something to keep the bolt in place/from turing. Quote Doethepaperboy "Bars of Pain" Doethepaperboy "Hero Remix" C. Arson d(-__-)b beer sucks...but i can bring some jose cuervo. Only problem is that it makes me horny and gives me the rams. So unless yall wanna fight and then have some great make up sex i will leave it home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 you can do that i personally used self tapers from the rear of the door...has held on fine for a year or so now with constant slamming doors/roadtrips/drunk girls/potholes Quote Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_AnGeL_ Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 you should mount some bolts into the wood frame of the pod then you can just use nuts and washers to hold them in place. thats what i plan to do. drill you some holes in the frame and countersink the bolts and use some epoxy or something to keep the bolt in place/from turing. x2 or you can just fiberglass onto the door itself as you said. Quote Head Unit: Pioneer Premier Deh-600ub Front Stage: (2) Whip Audio 8" Mid-Bass (2) Whip Auido 6" Mid & (2) Audiopipe ATX-3720 Amps: (2) Cadence TXA300-4 Amp Kit: Knukonceptz Coming Soon: already ordered Sub: 2 DD T1508's Amp: Sundown saz-1500 Tired of the lag? Come get crunk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiBTLforlife Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 ok im starting to get it. but only thing is with the mounting on frame part??? im going to have the whole stock door panel on the door. so i scerw into the plastic of the door, not the frame right?? any pics showing this done? Quote 2 AQ 10'' HDC3 copper subs 1 3500d AQ amp 146.3db on TL with stock electrical in single cab truck at 32hz RESULT: 1st place at comp, 3rd overall out of 20 cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiBTLforlife Posted May 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 ok im starting to get it. but only thing is with the mounting on frame part??? im going to have the whole stock door panel on the door. so i scerw into the plastic of the door, not the frame right?? any pics showing this done? lol sorry guys, ive been at work over 14 hours now and i get what ur saying, it took me a minute to think but im good now.. thanks for yalls help Quote 2 AQ 10'' HDC3 copper subs 1 3500d AQ amp 146.3db on TL with stock electrical in single cab truck at 32hz RESULT: 1st place at comp, 3rd overall out of 20 cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperorjj1 Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 you cant really get the fiberglass to hold onto the door panel so it must be attached somehow. I was actually going over this recently with the fiberglass guy at the shop who did my pods. Its all dependent on how you do them. Mine are thick heavy and have 2 big ass speakers. So they aren't adhered to the door panel at all. they are actually screwed into the metal of the door behind both speakers (4 screws). But a more recent pod hes working on is much smaller and actually is screwed to the door panel from the back(4-5 screws). He also mainly glued the ones he made for his truck to the door panel since they were so thin and stretched across the whole door. i think there was only 1 screw the rest was ca glue. You really need to get the shape of the door somehow thou. lay some foil or put plenty of wax paper or use automotive tape ect and be careful... you really dont want to attempt to fiberglass the pod to the door. it wont work and will fuck up your panel Quote J. JMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiBTLforlife Posted May 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 ok man thanks for the info, im gone be trying this soon. so ill post how things go Quote 2 AQ 10'' HDC3 copper subs 1 3500d AQ amp 146.3db on TL with stock electrical in single cab truck at 32hz RESULT: 1st place at comp, 3rd overall out of 20 cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperorjj1 Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 np... i have a thread here somewhere with pics of how all he did my pods. Id be glad to answer any questions you have even thou im not really the one who did them Quote J. JMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tibs Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 (edited) make your base out of fiberglass so it fits to the doorpanel perfect. then get some t-nuts. and flatten out the spikes. drill a hole into the fiberglass insert the tnut and bolt from the other side and get some more fiberglass to hold it in place. in this pic you can see the tnut hangin down. i used 3. drill the holes into the fiberglass and door panel at the same time so they line up. and the tnut will just fall into place in the door panel. and fit perfect. Edited May 13, 2009 by tibs Quote Tibs 99 F-150 Build 8 twelves 8 - Re SE 12"s 2 - SunDown Audio Saz-3000d's 1 - vx4004 planet audio amp big 3 1/0 gauge MECHMAN 250 amp alt MySpace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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