emperorjj1

depends on your definition of OG 🤷‍♂️

lol ill travel across the country and deliver it to you

lol 487 is some discount.... but i respect your determination

yeah UPS is... fun

have you even looked at the lights yet? This isn't a miracle going to fix all product but you can use it to reseal lights you take apart. From what you stated you dont really need to take apart the lights. Before one can recommend a product to fix the problem you have to find out what it is first. If the lights are holding enough water you have to drain them then at some point it looks like the seal is just fine. So how does the water get in the lights to begin with?

Just sent you a PM second skin if you could take a look for me

i used basically the same thing to seal my headlights. just remember you need to bake them after

using it as a gasket to seal something would work well but ya if it needs to be removalbe then you may want to look else where. My whole thing was just with the product sticking to wood. Most people make boxes out of wood and most of those are MDF. If MDF is one or both of the surfaces that need to be sealed then this may not be the best solution for that specifically. Metal and plastic is really what you would focus using this on. I havent tried this with this particular butyl but you can remove butyl with heat. just how well and how possible it is to re use it is debatable

I wouldnt use to seal boxes personally to be honest. I wish this product came out a little sooner because this is exactly what i needed to reseal my lights after doing a retrofit. I basiclly spent double the money for a inferior butyl product that im using now. a couple good uses off the top of my head: sealing tail or headlights after custom modifications resealing the stock guard on the door after installing speakers, crossovers & tweeters any plastic or metal installation of speakers and tweeters can be used in conjunction with Damplifier to seal larger gaps in sheet metal (example in my old car the front firing subs had alot of acoustic cancellation and needed an air tight seal between the cabin and trunk. In between the rear deck and the trunk there were several largeish holes in the sheet metal that when covered with only damplifier wasnt very stable as is much less with 150db of pressure once everything would be complete. Since this was before this product was out what i ended up doing was basiclly getting a sheet of damp pro peeling off the foil layer and putting the butly into a ball. then rolling ball into the desired rope shape to then be shoved in the corner of the trunk and covered with damp pro)

depends on what the rattles are. I dont think second skin sells the rattle pad anymore but you could use overkill or overkill pro instead. A good base package would be a sheet of overkill or overkill pro and the 10sq ft of dampliefer. That would run you 65 bucks + shipping

rattle trap would help on plastic on plastic rattles

just do it once. One thing i did was pull the interior many many multiple times. One thing i learned from all that is to try to pull things the least amount of times possible. 1 vs 2 isnt going to make or break anything but unless theres a serious advantage of doing spectrum first it makes no sense to pull the interior twice. i was researching a lil bit to see if i could find any additional info about the total cure time for spectrum and i found a pretty trusted guy say that preformance wise spectrum would work better on damp then the other way around. i never heard that so taking it with a grain of salt but it makes sense. I did spectrum over damp for 1 reason and 1 reason only. When i first bought damp the company was rather new and i think their manufacturing wasnt perfected yet. On top of that i was a total noob and didnt really know how to apply it that great either. so when i put the damp on and rolled it there were seams of butyl between every piece. So put the carpet back and each seem would stick to the carpet. So the spectrum provided a layer over that as well as a uniform surface for the entire floor.

no you dont have to let the car sit 30 days... that's just how long it takes to fully cure. Spectrum is water based so the water needs a chance to dry out. if i remember correctly 48 hours is how long you have to wait before you can re-install the interior. I got this information from the founder of second skin years ago and it was posted on the old ss forum which is now gone when they revamped their site years ago as well. It was the same question can i install damplifier on spectrum and the answer was yes but you want to wait until it fully cures not initially dries. If its dry to the touch and you cover it with damplifier then any water at that point is traped and unable to dry. So to me at least it sounds like most of the curing/drying whatever you want to call it happens almost immediately but theres a longer timeframe afterwards where a small amount water still needs to evaporate. im pretty sure the 30 day timeframe is based of worse conditions for the stuff to dry so depening on the humidity and temperature at the time its applied it may cure before the 30 day mark. So ya its so much easier to just apply damp then apply spectrum where you dont have to worry about waiting for it to fully cure BUT if you for whatever reason dont want to or cant then its better to be safe and wait the 30 days before applying the damp pro over spectrum.

nope 30 days. spectrum will stick just fine to deadener.... well second skin deadener. Its covered in aluminum which isn't sheet meal steel but close enough. I did the entire floor of my old car front to back in damplifier pro covered in spectrum without any issues. now i didnt apply spectrum on any of the vertical surfaces or the roof either. im not 100% sure why looking back but thats just what happened. i did spray the inside of my box in specrum and it adhered to that just fine (had to do thin coats on the sides)

you can yes just remember it takes 30 days for spectrum to fully dry. Plus IMO spectrum sprayed over damplifier looks better. So i would suggest doing it the other way around however there shouldnt be a performance difference either way mainly just prefrence

right you are able to install it in places that will get wet and it will be fine. It needs to be dry when installed but once its adhered to the surface then you are good

ya all i had on mine was a single layer of damp pro, no other support.... if your using quality dampener then u wont need 5 layers oh ya and it would flex so bad you could see it moving both the roof and rear window quite a bit.... couldnt hear any rattles though

mine was on the outer skin. i just cut it slightly larger than the space between the crash bars and shoved it in between them. it fit real snug and worked out well. I had some issues with getting it to stick at first but i think that was just do to user error/ long pieces. Once everything was said and done i didn't have any issues the last few years i owned the car.... i could play the stereo at full crank and with the doors closed barely hear anything outside of the vehicle.

100% coverage isnt nessicary but as a barrier the closer you get to 100 the better. i used it in my doors with less than 100% coverage but as close as i could get. It got real quiet

you do realize that we both said the same thing using different words.... link is cool though

real sound deadener like second skin isnt made to add mass but it still does.

damplifier is really only meant to be used on the sheet metal and the foam products are to be used from keeping 2 surfaces from touching or to "hold" a panel in place persay. You first need to find out the source of the noise you are trying to get rid of. If you have a system and it only rattles while thats on then turn on the system and go to the hatch area and see if you can find the rattling (might be hard in that situation but it is what it is) If it only does it while driving on a certain bad road then get someone to drive you down that road while you are in the hatch area with the music off preferably. You want to just hold your hand against whatever you think is rattling if it stops then you found the source if not try again. If you weren't able to locate the source with the panels on try with the plastic panels off, it could be the sheet metal. Just remember that nothing you do can really hurt (applying damplifier or foam products). There are certain situations that you cant do much to help but those are pretty uncommon. If you get to the point where you figured out there is a piece of plastic flexing causing the rattle and you cant really add foam to the issue then try the damp pro on the panel. Its not going to work like its made to but it will add some weight to the panel and hopefully lower the resonance freq of the panel.

that might work. On my old car i sealed the flapper vent with expanding foam then covered that with Damp pro while it was hardening. then i covered that with spectrum

when you say vents and such being covered what do you mean? Spaying spectrum on the entire trunk may seal it but it all depends on where the water is coming from really. if its a hole in the body and you tape over it and spray spectrum over the tape then ya problem solved but say its the seal on a light or something like that then what your planning on doing wouldn't do anything to stop that

and you can't get in there to install second skin? Great stuff really isn't a good sound dampening product. It has its uses to stop noise but its not as effective as most make it seem.