sean 371 Posted March 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Actually, crap. I used the wrong equation. That's the ideal frequency...But the box is tuned somewhere around there, too lazy to dig up the exact frequency at the moment. Subs get here next Monday. I'll have the the car ready by then. I ordered my mids/highs amp, that should beat the subs to my house. Power Acoustik sl4-1000. Can't wait to hear all this! Question: My amps are drawing 200 amps total. I have a redtop under the hood, upgraded 1 out of the big 3 (alt to batt, I'll be doing the other 2 in the next few days), should i try to get hold of a second battery? Or should I be fine with what I got? Question 2: What size fuse should I run between the alternator and the battery? I have a 200 amp going from battery to amps, should I run a 250 or 300 amp between alt and batt? A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted March 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 200 views and so few posts? No interest/criticism or what? Come on guys!! A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 the fuse between the battery and alt should either be the size of the alt or about 20-30 amps more. you should probably get a second battery too. what size alt is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted March 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 I thiiiink it's a 145 stock, so just a 150 then? I wouldn't add any to it b/c of the amps? A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 what do you mean by you wont add any by the amps? you mean pull more juice from the alt? you cant. if its a 145 amp alt, thats all you're gonna get unless it surges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted March 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 Gotcha. No I realized where I was thinking wrong after I posted it. Thanks Any thoughts on the box tho?? A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 not bad at all. but why did you make them separate chambers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted March 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 I like separate chambers for a couple reasons. One, if I end up blowing one of the subs, I can still run one. Two, there's no turbulence between the two when the air flow meets. I like the look of one single port, but separate chambers just works better for me in my experience. There's no real benefit to doing one chamber over two is there? A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted March 10, 2007 Report Share Posted March 10, 2007 I like separate chambers for a couple reasons. One, if I end up blowing one of the subs, I can still run one. Two, there's no turbulence between the two when the air flow meets. I like the look of one single port, but separate chambers just works better for me in my experience. There's no real benefit to doing one chamber over two is there? x2 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted March 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Quick update...subs are on time, and will be delivered tomorrow. Progress soon! Both amps are hooked up, power/ground is all done, I just have to finish running new speaker wires. A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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