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Project "SQL Monte Carlo v4" *Updated 1.26.12*


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Hu looks badass!! Why that particular sub choice? Jw

There a SQ sub and thats what hes goin for i believe

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2007 Chevy HHR LT

UNDER CONSTRUCTION

1st Place Loud N Low 2010 MWSPL Finals

3rd Place Xtreme 3 2010 MWSPL Finals

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looking good. I like the choice of sub, but why a wall with a pair of ID subs? is this going to be an SQ vehicle or... I'm just kinda lost, and you took out Rainbows....

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////Alpine, Eclipse, Load Boss, Pheonix Gold, MB Quart,Digital Desings, Memphis, Stinger, Periphial, MTX, Visualogic

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oh my god that kit looks fckn AWESOMEEE, sorry i just had to repeat myself that thing looks absolutely sick installed!

1997 Pontiac Bonneville Black on Black on Black

15" DC Sound Labs Level 5 w/ quad coil in a T-Line tuned to 35 hz

7" Jensen VM9311TS Touch Screen Flip Out w/ J-Link

Blue Custom Trim

Blue Custom Fiberglass Rear Speaker Pods

Autotek Mean Machine MM2000.1

1/0 Knukonceptz KLMX

Rockford Fosgate Twisted RCA's

2 Audiopipe Anl fuse holders w/ 200A Kicker fuses

2nd battery (Soon to be an Odyssey D3100)

Dynamat Extreme Bulk Pack

Custom False Floor

15% Tint All Around

Custom Painted Stock Rims

My Build Log

Tailights

15" Lvl 5 DC T-Line Build

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shits on point son... good wrk

Thank you sir. The real work starts tomorrow...I was thinking about ripping out my interior and running all the wiring but I still haven't figured out my amp rack so i'm just gonna do the Big 3, run 16ga for the front speakers, wire up and install my subs in the box, and try to decide on an amp rack...I also have to get an outline of the opening behind my seats so I can put up a wall in the trunk if my theory proves valid......

It seems that because I am going to have my subs firing through the rear seat, about 6" back, that I am going to have some gnarly cancellation. So to prevent that it seems that I have to seal off the front of the box from the rest of the trunk but I have absolutely no clue how to accomplish that. It seems that having the subs firing towards the deck lid, about 6" back, will do away with most of the cancellation but I can't lose my whole trunk so my thinking is this....If firing them that way = in phase = excellent bass response, then firing them into the back seats, about 6" back, into a solid object (the wall) will also = in phase and excellent bass response. This will be far easier than trying to seal off the front of the box from the rest of the trunk. I just hope it pans out cause otherwise I'd just have to deal with the cancellation until I figured out how to seal off the box from the trunk while making it look nice in the process.

Hu looks badass!! Why that particular sub choice? Jw

Agreed. The sexiness of that deck is what caught my eye, but the things it can do is what sealed the deal.

I went with those subs because i'm more interested in SQ vs. SPL, but they are very capable of getting loud and low (at least loud and low enough for me), not too many people run them and I like being different, and lastly, I think they're sexy as hell! I got them for a hell of a price and for what I paid, nothing else out there even came close.

There a SQ sub and thats what hes goin for i believe

True story

cant wait to see this built man. and agreed with the nice hu set up :clapping:

Just imagine how anxious I am to get it built!

looking good. I like the choice of sub, but why a wall with a pair of ID subs? is this going to be an SQ vehicle or... I'm just kinda lost, and you took out Rainbows....

Appreciate it.

I knew as soon as I typed "wall" that it would be misunderstood as "wall for subs"...the "wall" i'm speaking of is simply meant to be used as a divider between the trunk and the cabin who's purpose is to give the subs a hard surface to load off of and hopefully result in the low end waves being in phase. Right now i'm running some 12's firing through the back seat and am experiencing some cancellation due to the waves being out of phase. I know I could simply turn the box around but I really don't want to induce more vibration and rattling, right now I have next to none. My belief is that the waves bouncing off the hard surface in front kicks them backwards and for the most part they align with the rear waves, so all I'd be doing is reversing it. And since bass is omni-directional it should have little to no effect on the output since my 6x9 openings will be open, allowing the bass to enter the cabin.

Yep, took out the Rainbows. They're about 7 years old and have been through 4 cars in that time, I burnt up the crossover on one of them so no telling what condition the speaker and/or tweeter is in so I figured I'd start from scratch with this build. Everything going in the car on this one is BNIB, nothing being recycled. And with the combination of running an active xover network, deadening/sealing the front doors, I have a feeling my CDT's will more than hold their own against the Rainbows, especially since they'll be getting about 170 watts rms each. The Rainbows never seen over 60 watts rms each.

oh my god that kit looks fckn AWESOMEEE, sorry i just had to repeat myself that thing looks absolutely sick installed!

LOL. The only difference between that one and mine is that mine doesn't have the SS on it and mine will light up blue instead of red.

Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03

CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6

Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f

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Didn't have much time to do much on it this weekend but I did get 2 of the Big 3 done. Wasn't able to upgrade the alternator lead due to running out of wire and not being able to find any at any shops in my area. The problem is that i'm using 2ga, which apparently is hard to come by, so since the power wire in my amp kit is also 2ga i'm gonna hold off on doing that alternator lead until I run my power wire because I have a feeling I'll have enough leftover to get the alt lead done. I began running speaker wire for my front stage but again ran out of wire, I was hoping I had enough of the 16ga Monster Cable to get it done but nope! So I pulled the wire out and have decided to run KnuKonceptz Karma series wire, I have 100ft of 16ga and 10ft of 12ga on order.

I also was able to figure out my amp rack, I think it's going to look real clean too. At first I was going to fire the subs through the back seat, but after listening to them like that, and firing to the back, I concluded firing to the back won so i'm just gonna have to chase down and kill the rattles. I sketched it out and then mocked it up using cardboard and loved it so it's finalized!

Here's some pics

Had a little issue getting the lug from the negative battery terminal to fit the ring terminal, nothing a drill bit couldn't fix tough

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But then once I got the terminal to fit the lug, had an issue getting the boot to fit, grrrr.

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So I had to notch the boot to get it to fit

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After that it was smooth sailing

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Even with the headlights on and system bumping, my voltage stayed constant between 13.8 and 14.5 :acute:

Here's a rough sketch of what my amp rack is going to look like. Once I got it mocked up I realized that it would look 10x better w/o the grommets so I decided to make it to where the amps are flush mounted to the board with all the wiring hidden. The rack will be visible only when I drop the back seats down and they will be mounted vertically on a board that will have no visible bolts or screws. The xovers aren't going to be used, i'm going active, and the distro block will be hidden as well.

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Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03

CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6

Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f

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i know its been said before, but that HU surround is F'in tight as hell!!!!

TNCB

....my damn room was shaking, im like wtf is this how am i gonna die jakin off to vida guerra?

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Look what the UPS man brought me today!

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Now as soon as he brings me my KnuKonceptz Karma SS twisted pair speaker wire, I can get busy!

I have 100ft of 16ga and 12ft of 12ga coming

Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03

CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6

Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f

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Got a little bit done today, about all I could get done with this heatwave we're having right now and the fact that my boy has a basketball tournament that started at 9am. The work i'm getting done is in between games since the tourney is at his high school which is about 5-10 minutes away.

My goal for today was to get the amp rack pieces cut. This is my first time doing wood work since high school 16yrs ago and it showed. I had to cut the mounting base of each amp twice as I didn't measure right the first time. I wanted to test fit the face of the amp rack behind my back seats but I left my tools at work so that didn't happen. But I got everything cut out so now it's time to figure out how i'm going to assemble and reinforce it.

This is a rough draft of how i'm building it:

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This is the back view showing backside of "basket" where each amp will be installed. As you can see there are only sides on the top/bottom, none on the sides. Because the material i'm using is 3/8" particle board (because that's as big as I could get in behind the back seat), it seems as though screws aren't a terribly good idea so I was going to use either Gorilla glue or Titebond and then reinforce the joints with fiberglass. Does that sound alright or should I do it another way?

Here's the pics from what I was able to do today

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Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03

CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6

Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f

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