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JBL GTO 1400.1


siucsaluki11

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But how will i wire up the sub? Since it has 2 + and 2 -, how should i wire this, and should i get a D2 or D1 sub to get a 2 ohm load. I know if it had only one set of + and - i would get D1 vcs and wire them in series. But this one has me puzzled.

you need 2x dual 2ohm subs to run the amp @ 2ohms...

on a side not that mapis a great amp, my friend has it, and if getting 2x more. they make 1700-1800 rms ez...

raytard is his user name on here

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shit, well. This has me confused cuz its a 1ch amp, as is my current one. But it is set up like it has 2 ch. Do i need to bridge it? If so, how the hell do i do that? My current amp is technically 1ohm stable, but it is regulated so it makes the same as if it was wired at 2 ohms. I have 2 D2 subs hooked up to it at 4 ohms each, so its seeing a 2 ohm load right? Could i bridge it? If so, what VC convig would i wanna get?

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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What if i had a D1 sub and only connected it in series to one of the sets of outputs?

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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The two outputs are for the convenience of wireing. it's kinda like the DAT 2500.1 it has two sets of power inputs your amp has two sets of outputs. You need a dule 1Ω sub and run it in series there for presenting a 2Ω load to the amp. the + and the - are the same it does not mater wich ones you hook the sub up to.

Hope this helps.

"Audio is not a hobby it's a lifestyle"

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Thanks, that helps alot. Glad to know i dont need to use both. Looks like ill be puttin in an order for a lvl 4 18 with lvl 5 coils as soon as my current system sells

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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