newls1 Posted July 18, 2009 Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 (edited) ya you can change that plug, but that Is not your issue. That is the VR pigtail, and if at any point your getting 13v+ in your charging system, pretty much rules out that plug. I like your idea of getting a new alt. That looks like a STOCK alt, so what I would do is take it off, and bring it to a GOOD parts store (NAPA) and have them test it. It is not some high amp alt, so testing it shouldnt be an issue. But so far, you have done an excellent job at trying to find out what your issue is. Edited July 18, 2009 by newls1 Quote I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 ya you can change that plug, but that Is not your issue. That is the VR pigtail, and if at any point your getting 13v+ in your charging system, pretty much rules out that plug. I like your idea of getting a new alt. That looks like a STOCK alt, so what I would do is take it off, and bring it to a GOOD parts store (NAPA) and have them test it. It is not some high amp alt, so testing it shouldnt be an issue. But so far, you have done an excellent job at trying to find out what your issue is. 1. Yes it is a stock alternator puts out about 135amp but I dont know what it is suppose to do at Idle. 2. I am not going to mess with taking this Alternator off because I am ordering the Mechman Rhino Alt and XS Battery in about a week. Going to need bigger anyway and Thanks I try to check everything out.. . tried to rule each and every part out. my three conclusions above was all I could think of. How ever after looking more I notice there is a small bolt on the back side of the engine that you can adjust the throttle position. I have not done it yet but I was thinking of adjusting that enough that my idle is not so low and in the possess my voltages will be a little higher. Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 OK.. i finally got it fixed... First take a look at this Pic then I will explain my thoughts on this. This is on a 4.6l V8 Motor used in either Ford Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer. In this picture you can see the 2 silver nuts that I put on the bolt that you can adjust your idle with.. I was not able to turn the bolt so I went to parts store and got some nuts that fit the bolt that way I can put two on and one locks the other one in place so I can turn the bolt out. After playing with this for a little I was able to adjust my idle up to 1000rpm when in park and when it is put in gear it drops to 750 rpm. It works great now voltages stay up where they are suppose to be plus higher RMP more amps I get. I really don't know what caused my problem but I am wondering if bass vibration could have possibly slightly moved this bolt causing me to idle lower then normal... which caused volts to drop.. which caused vehicle to die when coming to a stop. It did not take a lot of adjustment to get things back to normal... maybe 1/2 turn would have done it but I went 1 full turn. for anyone that has a 4.6l Ford motor the size of nuts that I had to get were #5 at Auto zone. Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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