Hotdog Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) So I went back to square one and checked all my connections.. got rid of the distribution block on the positive terminal and put another one on. I have to put connector ends on all the wiring so and they bolt to the battery now, so I know I have a good connection now. I took the voltage meter out of the distribution block and mounted it in the vehicle in a nice location where I can monitor the voltages from inside. I am idling at 13.6 now but I notice that when I am driving and slow down to make a turn that it will dip to 12.6. Initially when I did the big three I was holding 14.2 volts... could the difference be a ground point somewhere? I can rule out my Ground from Alt to Chassis cause I know that is definitely solid.. I am thinking that if there is a weak spot on the ground it would have to be the neg distribution block... maybe I will change it out. anymore thoughts? thanks for all the reply's so far Edited July 10, 2009 by Hotdog Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainzPlanetz Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 So I went back to square one and checked all my connections.. got rid of the distribution block on the positive terminal and put another one on. I have to put connector ends on all the wiring so and they bolt to the battery now, so I know I have a good connection now. I took the voltage meter out of the distribution block and mounted it in the vehicle in a nice location where I can monitor the voltages from inside. I am idling at 13.6 now but I notice that when I am driving and slow down to make a turn that it will dip to 12.6.Initially when I did the big three I was holding 14.2 volts... could the difference be a ground point somewhere? I can rule out my Ground from Alt to Chassis cause I know that is definitely solid.. I am thinking that if there is a weak spot on the ground it would have to be the neg distribution block... maybe I will change it out. anymore thoughts? thanks for all the reply's so far Your engine will bog down slightly when turning due to the strain of your power steering pump, lower engine speed=lower amperage out of the alt. Quote ¿ǝɯɐƃ ǝɥʇ Trolls never learn............ All BS aside, If I see one more comment in here that is NOT about the pre-sale, I will start the vacations. And that includes the trolls feeding the trolls. YOU THE ONE THAT SOUND LIKE A OGER AND HUMPBACK/TROLLS? Add "SMDLIFER" on Xbox LIVE to play with other SMD members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) Your engine will bog down slightly when turning due to the strain of your power steering pump, lower engine speed=lower amperage out of the alt. I was under the impression that you should hold 14.1 volts all the time unless of course your abusing your system ... But voltage does drop when slowing down to a stop sometimes 11.9 volts to 12.5 volts (keep in mind everything is off..no ac..no radio). Then when I put my foot on the gas it jumps right back up to 13.9 volts... so that is normal? The Idle is better now and it is not dieing on me now... (( Knock on Wood )) When I am at highway speeds I can crank the stero wide open with very little dip in voltage usually only a couple tenths of voltage. Edited July 10, 2009 by Hotdog Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 I've had the same problem for years- i'm going to keep my eye on this thread- if you come up with something PM me because i think we're having the same issue. My next step is checking my fuel system and maybe changing the fuel filter to make sure i'm not choking the gas out of the motor randomly -Drew Quote I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 i'm going to keep my eye on this thread- if you come up with something PM me because i think we're having the same issue.My next step is checking my fuel system and maybe changing the fuel filter to make sure i'm not choking the gas out of the motor randomly -Drew I don't think it is my fuel filter because I just had that change at the ford dealership 2 months ago and I always maintain the vehicle.. Fresh oil change last week. I am going to recheck all the grounds today.. maybe take out my ground distribution block and bolt them all on also. My only thought that I have at this point is I was told that power likes to travel through the line with the least resistance and my alternator originally went straight to the fuse box under the hood then went to the battery from the fuse box. I am wondering if maybe my problem is that my wire running from the alternator to the fuse box is still stock and I added the Alternator to battery with an inline fuse to the battery with 1/0 wire..... so is it possible that the power is not staying constant through the wire from the Alt to the fuse box? anyway more on this later after I check things out some more.. Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Try a positive wire from the alternator straight to the battery. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainzPlanetz Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) I was under the impression that you should hold 14.1 volts all the time unless of course your abusing your system ... But voltage does drop when slowing down to a stop sometimes 11.9 volts to 12.5 volts (keep in mind everything is off..no ac..no radio). Then when I put my foot on the gas it jumps right back up to 13.9 volts... so that is normal?The Idle is better now and it is not dieing on me now... (( Knock on Wood )) When I am at highway speeds I can crank the stero wide open with very little dip in voltage usually only a couple tenths of voltage. You wont hold max voltage due to lower engine speed which lowers the output of the alt, just sitting there in park turn you steering wheel all the way to the left or right and you will hear and feel the engine RPM's drop, what year is your car, maybe take it to the same dealership you went to get you fuel filter changed, and have them increase your idle maybe about 75-125 rpm and see if that helps. Edited July 10, 2009 by CaptainzPlanetz Quote ¿ǝɯɐƃ ǝɥʇ Trolls never learn............ All BS aside, If I see one more comment in here that is NOT about the pre-sale, I will start the vacations. And that includes the trolls feeding the trolls. YOU THE ONE THAT SOUND LIKE A OGER AND HUMPBACK/TROLLS? Add "SMDLIFER" on Xbox LIVE to play with other SMD members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 Ok.. today I I removed the distribution block on the Negative battery terminal and replaced it with one that can I can bolt down all my connection too... Problem still remains. Keep in mind this did not use to be a problem after I did the big 3 I was able to idel at 14.1 / 14.2 volts... I started noticing the problem when I Switched out my Rockford P6002 amp with a Rockford T10001 amp. Here are some of the things I have tried. 1. Disconnected all the wiring except factory wiring .... Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. 2. Just factory wires with 1/0 from alt to battery... Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. 3. Just factory wires with 1/0 from alt to Fuse Box... Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. 4. Put all my wiring back... 1/0 from Alternator to Positive Terminal fused with 200amp... 1/0 from Positive terminal to Distribution block in car Fused with 150amp... 1/0 Battery Negative terminal to Chassis... 2ga ground from Negative terminal to block... 1/0 from Alt to Chassis...Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. At this point all I can think of is Three things... Voltage regulator in alternator is bad or I blew a diode in the alternator or I have a dead cell in my battery.. Battery is only 2 months old I am getting a Mechman Rhino 250 Alternator and XS D3100 at the first of the month so have to see if the problem still persists after these two upgrades. Any thoughts or suggestions? Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 Anyone? I have the whole day off to mess with this thing... I need your guys brain power. Unless you think my assumption is right Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 Can you replace this cable that I have the arrow pointing at?... This is the last thing I can think of. I am assuming that this is the voltage regulator cable. Does the Mechman Rhino Alt come with a new cable to plug in here? Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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