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Need a little help in deciding


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Alright guys I know this kind of question has been asked before but I just wanted to make sure what will be right for me. I already tried searching for a long time but haven't really found my answer.

So I just bought a Sundown SAZ-2000D for my subs and I already have a JBL GTO 1004 for my mids and highs. So what I am trying to figure out is if I should upgrade my alt or just get a second battery. I already have a yellow top up front and I have the stock 145 amp alt. My system would be around 2400 watts but judging by how much the SAZ-2000D is underrated I'm guessing my system would be close to 3000 watts. I was first thinking about getting a Deka 9A31 for the rear and running that for a little bit until I got an MLA module. But now I'm thinking of buying a high output alt and running my system with the yellow top for a little while until I could buy a 9A31. What do you guys think I should do? I only have enough money for one or the other. Thanks in advance and this is my first post here!

2004 Chevy Trailblazer:

Deck: Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT

Mids: 4 Selenium 6W4P's

Highs: 2 AQ Tweeter's + 2 Crescendo Tweeters + 2 Power Acoustik NX-5 Bullet Tweeters

Highs Amp: MB Quart Onyx 4.125

Bass: 2 18" DC Audio XL's <-- Soon to be 8 Sundown SA-12's

Box: 13.37 Cu Ft @ 35 Hz with 3 8" sonotubes

Bass amps: Crescendo BC3500 @ .5 ohms (2nd one coming soon)

325a Singer Alt! 375a at 16+ volts!

2 XS Power D1400's

www.youtube.com/user/phukudmss

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i would have to say the alt. keep an eye on your voltage till you get both in. i have a 250amp alt, deka G31 and a yellowtop. running 3500w (2 saz-1500's and alpine pdx150.4) so im almost exactly what your looking at having. my voltage will touch 12v at idle and full tilt, at 2000rpm it wont drop under 13v. so, with less electrical you may see 10-11v (guessing) but getting to 10v is bad so just keep an eye on it and make sure you keep in 11v+

hope that helps.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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i would add the deka first, then do a 200 + amp alt, and then another deka 31 down the road if needed.

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Hmm alright I guess I will get the Deka first and then go from there. Thanks for the help

2004 Chevy Trailblazer:

Deck: Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT

Mids: 4 Selenium 6W4P's

Highs: 2 AQ Tweeter's + 2 Crescendo Tweeters + 2 Power Acoustik NX-5 Bullet Tweeters

Highs Amp: MB Quart Onyx 4.125

Bass: 2 18" DC Audio XL's <-- Soon to be 8 Sundown SA-12's

Box: 13.37 Cu Ft @ 35 Hz with 3 8" sonotubes

Bass amps: Crescendo BC3500 @ .5 ohms (2nd one coming soon)

325a Singer Alt! 375a at 16+ volts!

2 XS Power D1400's

www.youtube.com/user/phukudmss

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The storage will not help if you don't have the charging capabilities to back it up. Go with the alt first you already have a good battery, then another battery if you still need it later. I would suggest going with an alt with an external regulator like the ones from MechMan that you can turn up the voltage from inside the vehicle when you need it and keep it at 14volts when you are just cruising around.

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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The storage will not help if you don't have the charging capabilities to back it up. Go with the alt first you already have a good battery, then another battery if you still need it later. I would suggest going with an alt with an external regulator like the ones from MechMan that you can turn up the voltage from inside the vehicle when you need it and keep it at 14volts when you are just cruising around.

Yeah that's also on my mind at the same time, which is also why I needed help on deciding in the first place. I have a yellow top up front that's been pretty decent so far. I think I might as well get a high output alt first.

2004 Chevy Trailblazer:

Deck: Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT

Mids: 4 Selenium 6W4P's

Highs: 2 AQ Tweeter's + 2 Crescendo Tweeters + 2 Power Acoustik NX-5 Bullet Tweeters

Highs Amp: MB Quart Onyx 4.125

Bass: 2 18" DC Audio XL's <-- Soon to be 8 Sundown SA-12's

Box: 13.37 Cu Ft @ 35 Hz with 3 8" sonotubes

Bass amps: Crescendo BC3500 @ .5 ohms (2nd one coming soon)

325a Singer Alt! 375a at 16+ volts!

2 XS Power D1400's

www.youtube.com/user/phukudmss

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There are some good deals going on right now on HO alts, they are not nearly as expensive as they were a few years ago. Shop around the dealers available here on the site and do your research, you will be happy with Iraggi, DC or MechMan alts. They are all good brands just choose which one fits your needs the best.

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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adding the extra battery will at least keep your voltage up around 12 volts where if you just have the one battery and the alternator you will drop voltage very fast and most likely below 12 volts but it will jump back up faster.

either way you're gonna need both.

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But I already have a deep cycle battery. Shouldn't that help a little with that? The yellow top battery pretty much stopped my voltage drops right now and I have about 1400-1500 watts right now with the stock alt. I get what you are saying though and I will get another battery too.

2004 Chevy Trailblazer:

Deck: Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT

Mids: 4 Selenium 6W4P's

Highs: 2 AQ Tweeter's + 2 Crescendo Tweeters + 2 Power Acoustik NX-5 Bullet Tweeters

Highs Amp: MB Quart Onyx 4.125

Bass: 2 18" DC Audio XL's <-- Soon to be 8 Sundown SA-12's

Box: 13.37 Cu Ft @ 35 Hz with 3 8" sonotubes

Bass amps: Crescendo BC3500 @ .5 ohms (2nd one coming soon)

325a Singer Alt! 375a at 16+ volts!

2 XS Power D1400's

www.youtube.com/user/phukudmss

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Share on other sites

if you try to fill a tank(your battery) with a garden hose (your alt) while draining it with a 6" pipe (your system)eventualy the tank will run out of water. now if you get a bigger tank it will take longer to empty it but if you keep the smaller tank and upgrade to a 6" pipe to fill the tank then you dont have to worry about it going empty.

thats an easy explanation, please guys dont take that too litteraly, i already know what you are going to say. but this is a simple way to think about alt vs. battery.

i always recomend people new to car audio look at BCAE1.com. it explains these types of questions in great detail but wont get so technical that you cant understand it.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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