Chode69 Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 i would never let some shop test my truck for 10 minutes on their mc...IM doing the testing if that was the case...if i were you id been like hey ill give you 15 bucks if i can have 20 minutes on the mic. also big 3 and batts will make a HUGE help. as for the box...i think thats way too big. size her down a little. NoFearX18 said: Nick will bang just about anything.....LMAO....pun intended On 4/13/2010 at 9:51 AM, meade916 said: i was like DAMN, Chode is hardcore! he makes james look like a friendly person LOL! trainman0978 said: I dont know who is worse with the buttholes Chode or Big P... Team Deadly Hertz / Team DC Audio / Team XS Power 2010 DC AUDIO MEMBER OF THE YEAR!!! DuckretaryFEAR THE DUCK Durangho Chodes Blowthrough Build Youtube vids Muh Wife Need DC Audio? Hit me up for pricing!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 I don't care how bad the box is or what, that score is way too low. IMO as mentioned above they're trying to get you to buy new gear. Go to a show, get it done on a Termlab. 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9515ROB Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 You need more power. You are right you should be hitting over a 140 on AC but there is a 2-5 DB difference between AC and TL. A smaller enclosure might help you out or hurt you it is just something to play around with. (ITS ALL IN THE BOX) - 1998 Ford Mustang - Time to rebuild. 4 15s and alot of power TEAM DTF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1992Chevy K1500 Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Today I metered at a 135.9 at 40 hz sealed on the dash. Now I am not wanting to compete I just thought my 2 15s would get at least a 140. It was on an AC not a term lab, i don't now how much different the AC and TL are but i cant imagen it being that big of a difference in score. Any thoughts on the score or possibly something that stands out to anyone? Car is a 2005 trailblazer with no deadening. System. Stock electrical. Stock head unit. 2 Kicker L5 15s 11.5 cu ft tuned to 35hz. 1 Crunch 1500.1 wired at 2ohms. Some of the things I want to do are... Install a line driver, any thoughts on that? Do the Big 3. New battery upfront. There's your problem. The 1500.1 only outputs 375 x 1 @ 2-ohms. A GPV2000.1 would be a lot better if your on a budget. My comp setup (Not bad for what it is): HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with: 15.4" widescreen AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor 2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz) Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD 128MB shared video memory Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit 12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours) What it does: On a USB 2.0 Wireless card Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WCA Rusty Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 I would say more power and a smaller box DC AUDIO Phone Number 1(855)SPL-DBZZ Built by Competitors, for Competitors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jl10w3s Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Today I metered at a 135.9 at 40 hz sealed on the dash. Now I am not wanting to compete I just thought my 2 15s would get at least a 140. It was on an AC not a term lab, i don't now how much different the AC and TL are but i cant imagen it being that big of a difference in score. Any thoughts on the score or possibly something that stands out to anyone? Car is a 2005 trailblazer with no deadening. System. Stock electrical. Stock head unit. 2 Kicker L5 15s 11.5 cu ft tuned to 35hz. 1 Crunch 1500.1 wired at 2ohms. Some of the things I want to do are... Install a line driver, any thoughts on that? Do the Big 3. New battery upfront. my two 10's hit 141 on the TL so theres definitely something wrong with your setup.141 on the TL (2001 Dodge Durango R/T) 1- XS Power D2700 1-Alpine CDE-HD149BT (Head Unit) 1 pr.- Focal Polyglass 165v30 (Front Stage) 1 pr.- Hybrid Audio Technologies C61-2 (Rear Fill) 1-Kenwood Excelon XR-1S (Sub Amp) 1-Kenwood Excelon XR-4S (Mids-N-Highs Amp) 2- JL 10 W3v3-4 (Subs) -2.3 Cubes tuned to 32 hz 1-1/0 ga. & Big III in 1/0 140 @45 hz db drag legal (2008 Toyota Highlander Limited ---build in the works) 1- Kenwood DDX470 (Head Unit) 1 pr.- JL C3-650 (Front Stage) 1 pr.- JL C2-525 (Rear Fill, may upgrade to 6.5" C2 or C3 instead) 1- JL XD-400/4 (Mids-N-Highs Amp) 1- JL XD-600/1 (Sub Amp) 1- XS Power D3400 1- JL 10w3v3-2 (Sub) 1- JL 2 Ga. Amp Kit 1- BIG 3 in 1/0 1- self-built Fiberglass sub enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9515ROB Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 after looking at your pics again i think alot of your problem might be because the port is to close to the trunk and it aint giving the air a chance to bounce off the trunk so its just sitting in that space and kind of keeping the air traped down at the bottom of the box between the box and trunk lid. I think that is alot of your problem so try moving that box towards the front of the car a little and see what it does - 1998 Ford Mustang - Time to rebuild. 4 15s and alot of power TEAM DTF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldElks Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 I would like to say thank you guys for all the help. I AM changing the amp (Kicker 750.1 *i know this is odd a side note in a side note lol... just to clarify when running 2 subs in series to a mono block, you do not divide the power in half.. correct? Both subs will get the X amount of power?*) Back to the topic. I AM scaling the box down to around 8.5-9.0 cu ft and looking at a 37 hz tuning. Okayyyy I am also looking at a batcap, any reviews on these would be greatly appreciated! I dont have the money to go all out with the electrical, New HO alt, new bat in front, new bat(s) in the back, blah blah. So i am hoping the batcap will be an ok alternative for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1992Chevy K1500 Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 If you run, let's say, 750 watts RMS x 1 @ 1 ohm into two subs, each sub sees half that, or 375 watts RMS per sub. My comp setup (Not bad for what it is): HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with: 15.4" widescreen AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor 2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz) Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD 128MB shared video memory Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit 12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours) What it does: On a USB 2.0 Wireless card Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldElks Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 If you run, let's say, 750 watts RMS x 1 @ 1 ohm into two subs, each sub sees half that, or 375 watts RMS per sub. Ok so one last example just to clarify lol... 1000.1 at 2ohms going to 2 subs (being the amp puts out 1000 at 2ohms). Each sub will receive a total of 500 watts RMS. Correct? If this is the case I need to read more, being 15 i must of just assumed and hoped. All well better to learn this now then later. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/dirol.gif (btw i umpired all summer to get the money for the system lol, many people jump the the conclusion its all daddy and mommy... if they had it their way The trailblazer would still be 100% stock and we all know thats no fun)[/size] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.