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Posted

Hey guys, first off I just wanted to say what a fantastic community that has been built here, I can imagine that it only started with Steve and a few, and then hundreds of fans came along haha. Anyway, I hope you guys can give me some advice on what I need/should do. WARNING, Please use noob terminology for I lack as much experience as many of you - No joke.

Well at the moment I have a 12" kicker CompVR in my car, powered by a 350.1 Kicker amp. I'm not 100% sure on the wiring but I'm quite certain it's 4 guage. I've also got 260wat MTX speakers in the front with a Sony xplod headunit.

My question is though, I wanted to upgrade my Sub and Amp. I was looking at getting the Kicker 12" DCVR dual enclosure, powered by a Kicker 750.1 amp.

Would I need to get anything else regarding to wiring and power? Some guy told me I would probably need an other battery, if not, definitely a Capacitor. Mind you, everything under the hood is still factory. Oh yeah, if it helps, it's a Holden Vectra 99. I'm also from Australia and I'll be buying from ebay. If you guys can give me any recommendations or ideas on a different more efficient system, please let me know, cause I'm new to this game and I'm still trying to work it all out.

Once again guys, thanks in advance for your help.

Posted

what is a dcvr???

retarded build on the way.....

2000 bagged s10

2 hdc3 15s

aq2200

aq4x90

stinger/knu wire

optima batteries

220 amp alt

fosgate hu/mids and highs

Posted

if u already have an amp installed then u shouldnt need anything extra for this system....

and u wont need a battery or cap

i likes me some audio stuff...

Posted

Unless your alt is under 100 amps, your stock electrical should be fine.

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

Posted

So basically I can just remove my amp and sub. Connect the old wiring to the new amp and then the amp to the new sub, and it should all work fine without a cap or battery?

How will I know if I need more power? Is my car gonna like fully die out, or like my lights flicker, hard to start? Or shouldn't it be a problem?

Thanks for the quick response those guys.

Posted

If your headlights start flickering with the bass, you might need to get a batt. Otherwise, as long as you don't play for too long with the engine off, you should be fine.

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

Posted

What if I was to run a more powerful Amp. Say a Kicker 1000.1 instead of a Kicker 750.1?

Cause I was just reading on the subwoofer and;

"The Kicker DCVR12-2 12" enclosed subwoofer has an outstanding peak power of 1600W (800W RMS) on both speakers. "

Where as the 750.1 says;

"375 watts RMS at 4 ohms or 750 watts of peak power at 2 ohms."

and the 1000.1 is;

"Power Output

* 500 Watts RMS x 1 @ 4 Ohms

* 1000 Watts RMS x 1 @ 2 Ohms "

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