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aluminum 26.5 ||| aluminum oxide (14 ℃) 1 × 1014

brass 64 ||| aluminum oxide (300 ℃) 3 × 1011

chromium 126 ||| aluminum oxide (800 ℃) 4 × 106

copper 17.1 ||| carbon, amorphous 0.35

gold 22.1 ||| carbon, diamond 2.7

iron 96.1 ||| carbon, graphite 650 × 10−9

lead 208 ||| germanium 0.46

lithium 92.8 ||| pyrex 7740 40,000

mercury (0 ℃) 941 ||| quartz 75 × 1016

manganese 1440 ||| silicon 640

nichrome 1500 ||| silicon dioxide (20 ℃) 1 × 1013

nickel 69.3 ||| silicon dioxide (600 ℃) 70,000

palladium 105.4 ||| silicon dioxide (1300 ℃) 0.004

platinum 105 ||| water, liquid (0 ℃) 861,900

plutonium 1414 ||| water, liquid (25 ℃) 181,800

silver 15.9 ||| water, liquid (100 ℃) 12,740

solder 150

steel, plain 180

steel, stainless 720

tantalum 131

tin (0 ℃) 115

titanium (0 ℃) 390

tungsten 52.8

uranium (0 ℃) 280

zinc 59

Edited by lanman31337

2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds

1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4

4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's

1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1

1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1

1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass

1 - Alphasonic PCT6551

1 - Lanzar VX830

1 - JBL 22 band EQ

1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU

1 - AudioControl Epic160

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technically the best grounds are the bolts that actually ground the alt. like stated above thats the point of the big 3 is to reduce resistance with the grounds.

retarded build on the way.....

2000 bagged s10

2 hdc3 15s

aq2200

aq4x90

stinger/knu wire

optima batteries

220 amp alt

fosgate hu/mids and highs

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For SPL, if I'm shifting 1000A the length of the car and I can get 0.001 ohms less... that's still 1V (!!!!!!) at the end of the day which is probably worth at least 500w to me.

Daily, meh. Upgrade the battery -> chassis ground and ground it properly in the back and you'll be sweet.

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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lots of good replies here. Thanks fellas. Ill get a chassis reading when i go over to my friends house either tomorrow or Thursday.

I think this topic cleared up a lot of talk about grounds in general.

DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active

Eclipse cd7000

I serve drunks for a living :D

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Don't bother trying to get a reading unless your multimeter says Fluke or similar on it and cost upwards of $1000.

It'll just say 0. Or the resistance of your probes.

There are special ohmmeters out there for reading the difference between 0.001 and 0.002 ohms but the better way IMO is to use a good clamp meter and a good volt meter and shift some serious current through it then measure the drop :)

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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