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I made 4 aluminum supports of 8mm thick.

These have the same rounding as the plexi.

First, I made a mold out of mdf. After that, I drawed out the aluminum piece, and sawed it out.

after that, with double sided tape, I sticked it all together.

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Once this was done, I held it all to the copy-mill

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Here a picture of how it will look.

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The next step was to “modify” the supports, cause it looks a bit simple like this.

The lower plate is the model I made.

It’s only 4mm thick.

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In the piece I needed, I got rid off the aluminum, and sticked it all together again, and then got the mill back in there.

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Looks way cooler according to me.

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The other 3 will suffer the same cause.

The pattern looks good, but the support still doens’t look the way I wanted too…So I guess I’m going to modify this some more.

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Too some issues I didn't get the chance to do much on the ICE.

But now , a 'little' update.The 4 toggles where the plexi will lay on to are finished

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The alu-plate of 8mm where the toggles will get onto.

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Offcourse, some holes were needed here, otherwise you wouldn't be able to see the amplifier.This is the mold I made of 4mm thick MDF wood.

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Layed this on the aluminum and drawed it out

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Then, I drilled some holes, and sawed it all out with the electric jigsaw

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Pasted the MDF mold on to it.

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Then I mounted my upper-mill once again under the table to do some dangerous stuff :)

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Here the result

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this is so awesome

i love every little piece of it

amazing amazing work

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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Then I 'modified' the outer toggles.

Because a M6 bar with screw-thread will get into this one, I had to drill the hole much bigger, so the nut is sunk into it all.

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Made it big enough so it would be possible to get a 10 on there as well

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In all toggles I tapped a screw-thread of M5, to fasten them at the bottom

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Once I had all of this, I could begin the mounting.

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The front and back of the thick plate, I milled in a gap whereto I screwed a big L onto.SO I have a nice finishing touch, and the plexi is tense.

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Here are some aluminum parts I'm going to work with in the cover.

The 9 tubes you see on the fore-ground are from anodised aluminum.

On the backside you see 3 threadstaff of m6

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Here you see why I had to sink in the m6 screws.

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A picture here from the complete part, with the plexi on.I will have to screw this tight still, so I stays right where it needs to be.

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The whole part makes me feel that the amplifier is behind bars, in jail.

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As you may see, on the left, and on the right, I have a gap of about 4cm for the cables (for the amp)

As you may know by now, I'm not a fan of cables in an install, so...

I made 2 pieces of carbon fibre for the sides, so the connections will not be visible.

First, I made a fiberglass mold of the amplifier.

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Once this was ready, I rubbed out the lines of the tape.

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finished, so put on a layer of carbon in there.

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By doing this , I learned something really stupid.

Because I never took a mold of thins I make, I don't have the necessary products here to do that.

So I solved this on a idiotic way, really.

I just bought some plastic tape of 50cm? 50mmwss wide.

Taped it in the mold, and rubbed it in with polishing wax.

here you see the tape.

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So you see, somethings will go with simple methods.

After this all, I put in the disc in the carbon fibre, and rubbed the piece nice and straight with my giant abrading block.

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This is what I needed!

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To tighten these 2 pieces, I have to make some aluminum toggles on the amplifier, so they connect with the rest nicely.

The carbon plates still need some layers of epoxy.

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If made 2 toggles to tighten the carbon pieces onto the amlpifier.

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Here , everything is on the amplifier.

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You can see I only put in 1 screw.

The carbon fibre sits in between the aluminum and the amplifier, tight as a rock.

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When the cover is on, you aren’t gonna see that miserable screw anymore.

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I also worked on the 2 sides of the amplifier-box.

I milled out as many aluminum as possible, where the cables will have to come.It will be tight, but we like it that way

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On this aluminum slat, I'm going to mount 4 little vents who gives some extra cooling on the PPI.Cause the "feed" part of the amplifier is on the right side, I also did it on that side.The aluminum plate is 4cm high and the vents are 2.8cm big.

These 4 wholes, I drilled with a "step"drill

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Then I glued the slat on a piece of mdf, and made the wholes as big as the aluminum with the uppermill

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Then I took the mill, to round up the frontside of the aluminum, and so it's all milled nicely.

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Then I milled the backside of the slat diagonal

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after that I, carefely, drilled the wholes, who will serve to tighten the vents.

I used some normal wood-screws fot that.

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This is how it looks on the frontside.

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The meaning now is to polish that slat of aluminum, and put a layer of carbon fibre over that.Once this is all finished, I'm going to put in the uppermill again, to round up the frontside.

The meaning is that you'll see the aluminum that's rounded.

If this is possible, I'm not sure. HAven't done it myself either...but , there's a first time for everything!

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