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Duaber

Building High Output Alternators

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Are there any good sources I can read up on to learn about building high output alternators or where to get parts.

Edit: It seems for my application (Honda Accord) companies such as DC power and Mechman use "hybrid" alternator casings

Mechman is a Hybrid with a Ford 3G front housing with a 4G rear housing

DC Power is a Hybrid with a Chevy CS144 front housing with a AD244 rear housing

Edited by Duaber

Team Sundown

Team XS Power

System:

Car: 1997 Honda Accord

Head unit: Alpine CDE-7870

Amp: 2 Sundown saz-1500

Battery: kinetik 1400 and 2400

Subs: 2 Audioque HD310 D2

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Not all companies us "Hybrids" Some actually make alts that bolt up in factory locations with factory housings.. :)

Dom

Are there any good sources I can read up on to learn about building high output alternators or where to get parts.

Edit: It seems for my application (Honda Accord) companies such as DC power and Mechman use "hybrid" alternator casings

Mechman is a Hybrid with a Ford 3G front housing with a 4G rear housing

DC Power is a Hybrid with a Chevy CS144 front housing with a AD244 rear housing

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Who would you recommmend for parts for lets say a denso alt for a 1997 accord


Team Sundown

Team XS Power

System:

Car: 1997 Honda Accord

Head unit: Alpine CDE-7870

Amp: 2 Sundown saz-1500

Battery: kinetik 1400 and 2400

Subs: 2 Audioque HD310 D2

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Guest DC Power Rob
Who would you recommmend for parts for lets say a denso alt for a 1997 accord

I wouldnt recommend anything for your stock alternator.. It's only a 118MM OD Denso mid-case and is totally worthless for high output duty, anyone who tells you different has rocks loose in their head. They are like 4G Ford's, they just aren't good candidates for high output use. The Accord alternators have a strange (for Denso) drive end clocking, and Denso never really made anything that is a direct match.. We also run a few large case Denso alternators and just change the lower adjuster bracket.. I could literally build 20 different types of alternators for that car.. As a general rule though, the alternators we run in the Accords work great because they actually charge at realistic idle speeds and dont have belt slip issues because they have better belt geometry and OEM tensioner function.

If you want one of the 3G/4G alternators that people used on the Honda's, I could just send you one as I have about a dozen or so of them laying around the shop, but, you really wouldn't be happy with it.. Alternators that only make 50 amps at 2000 alternator RPM's aren't of much use..

I'm not trying to come across as being a d*ck about it, but there are ways to do things, and a way not to do things. Whichever way you go, you'll be better off not going down the road of working on your factory alternator, you wont be happy with the results and you'll just end up throwing money away which I really wouldn't want to see you do.. Rob

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I appreciate the response Rob, where do you think I should start to learn the process? I assume rebuilding a OEM type alt will at least give me experience and won't cost too much. I agree that power at idle is very important which is why i'm thinking about picking up a GM 230/160 from you for christmas.

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Team Sundown

Team XS Power

System:

Car: 1997 Honda Accord

Head unit: Alpine CDE-7870

Amp: 2 Sundown saz-1500

Battery: kinetik 1400 and 2400

Subs: 2 Audioque HD310 D2

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Guest DC Power Rob

The OEM Denso alternators are about as simple as they come to build, the only hang up is getting the stator out of the case because it's a slight press fit from the factory, but they generally are "stuck" in there and need some heat on the case to come out (or lots of beating which is NOT good).. Then basically it's just installing everything in reverse order to put it back together, but as I mentioned, the stator is the hangup for most people.. If you need more specifics though, I would be more than happy to help walk you through it and can even get you any of the parts you would need to rebuild it.. I've got boxes and boxes and boxes of OEM Denso parts here (NO import crap here)..

The 230 we build for the Accords, we can run a stock 65mm pulley on and they'll still make over a 100 amps at idle hot on that car.. No 4 cyl Accord was ever made that you can hit 2500 alternator RPM's with at idle and keep a belt on the pulley, I've never seen it and I've checked at least 40 or 50 with my laser tach..

I've said it 1,000,000 times before, throw top end output numbers out the window, they are totally utterly meaningless unless your talking 350-400 amp alts... The only thing I want to see or care about is bottom end numbers, whatever they do on top is what they do... You'll never notice *not* having 30 amps on top, but I guarantee you'll notice *not* having it at idle...

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I know what your saying about idle output. I had a 200 amp alternator built for my nissan sentra from stock housing by Excessive amperage that would turn the alternator light on everytime the tranny shifted. I wasn't too happy with that turn on speed lol. Can't wait to get the large case conversion and not having to worry about belt slipping from a tiny pulley.

Edit: Thanks for the help so far Rob i'll have to give you a personal call one of these days

Edited by Duaber

Team Sundown

Team XS Power

System:

Car: 1997 Honda Accord

Head unit: Alpine CDE-7870

Amp: 2 Sundown saz-1500

Battery: kinetik 1400 and 2400

Subs: 2 Audioque HD310 D2

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Yes I know holy thread resurrection.. But hopefully someone from DC will see this...

So I have a chevy AD244 alt, will it bolt up to a 1994-1997 Honda accord?

In the link I'm providing below, in the second picture, the blue alternator, has a chevy 4 pin connector with an adapter harness on it, this makes it a chevy alt right?

http://blog.dcpowerinc.com/2011/09/01/xp-series-alternators-for-f22b-honda-accord-motor/

I ask because I'm looking to buy an accord and want to know if I can keep the alt I already have from DC, thanks in advance..

Edited by 04murdalanche

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