How far is your port from your trunk lid (those firing ports back)

[Bluebrindle]

I did do a similar thread asking about distance from port to trunk lid but didnt get a lot of response so this may be better then i can make my own judgement.

All i want to know is

1.Port size (height x width)

2. distance from port opening to trunk lid

thanks

[z_ro]

I did do a similar thread asking about distance from port to trunk lid but didnt get a lot of response so this may be better then i can make my own judgement.

All i want to know is

1.Port size (height x width)

2. distance from port opening to trunk lid

thanks

so you had a thread and chose to make another about the same subject?

WHY?

[wL<3bass]

You usually want you port to be atleast a far away as the port is wide so if you port is 4"Wide x 12"Tall, your gonna want it to be ATLEAST 4" from the back or the trunk lid.

[CaptainzPlanetz]

You usually want you port to be atleast a far away as the port is wide so if you port is 4"Wide x 12"Tall, your gonna want it to be ATLEAST 4" from the back or the trunk lid.

^^^^^^^^^^

That, is what I usually go by, back when I did subs and port back.

[E-Train]

port should be atleast the width of the port away from the trunk lid

[Bluebrindle]

so you had a thread and chose to make another about the same subject?

WHY?

Because i got about 2 replies. I asked about what distance was acceptable.

Here i,m asking what distance peoples ports actually are and then i make my own assumption.

OK?

I have got a port which is 6.25 high and is 6" at opening but tapers down to about 4". i think it will be okay as theres obviously lots and lots of airspace there(poirt is about 20 wide but trunk is about 40 all the way across)

I just dont wanna build it all then build it all again but think i,m gonna risk it.

[DUBIE]

what the guys above said are right. also you dont get that much trunk rattle IMO..

i know how it feels when you build a box and its done to bump some beat then when you find out it sounds like shit.. right now i have a BIG ass box in 96 my intrepid on a DC level 4 15 tuned to 30hz and yeah it bumps but since i got my measurements mixed up LOL the box is i believe 36 wide and 40-42 inches long and the port is like right next to the trunk..also the port is preety huge too. so i get TONS of rattle..sucks bro..sorry for the long story.LOL.

[Bluebrindle]

what the guys above said are right. also you dont get that much trunk rattle IMO..

i know how it feels when you build a box and its done to bump some beat then when you find out it sounds like shit.. right now i have a BIG ass box in 96 my intrepid on a DC level 4 15 tuned to 30hz and yeah it bumps but since i got my measurements mixed up LOL the box is i believe 36 wide and 40-42 inches long and the port is like right next to the trunk..also the port is preety huge too. so i get TONS of rattle..sucks bro..sorry for the long story.LOL.

do you hear the rattle though?

when i looked at it all i figured it would never work, until i took off the trunk trim panel. This gave me over 6" but left everything open and left big holes in the trunk which i realise is no good, i want all that air up front not stuck in the lid.

So i pulled some material over the trunk lid and glassed it all, i did about 5 layers of resin and some fibreglass then put some 4mm deadening on it, its now pretty damn solid so i,m hoping the airs gonna hit that and flow up front nicely.

Before i had subs and port up, it sounded very loud and did pretty hard hairtricks but only hit a 146.8 at 38hz with windows open(2 lvl5 15's on a xxx6500 , now it will be subs up port back and i just hope its still gonna move all that air but be louder too (2 lvl5 18's with a saz3500 on each).

[CaptainzPlanetz]

do you hear the rattle though?

when i looked at it all i figured it would never work, until i took off the trunk trim panel. This gave me over 6" but left everything open and left big holes in the trunk which i realise is no good, i want all that air up front not stuck in the lid.

So i pulled some material over the trunk lid and glassed it all, i did about 5 layers of resin and some fibreglass then put some 4mm deadening on it, its now pretty damn solid so i,m hoping the airs gonna hit that and flow up front nicely.

Before i had subs and port up, it sounded very loud and did pretty hard hairtricks but only hit a 146.8 at 38hz with windows open(2 lvl5 15's on a xxx6500 , now it will be subs up port back and i just hope its still gonna move all that air but be louder too (2 lvl5 18's with a saz3500 on each).

Do a Wall?

The bigger the box in the trunk is the less air movement you will have, if the box leaves basically no space for the air to make it way in to the cabin easily you are gonna lose hella output, not only by ear but on the meter as well.

You would probably be better off just using a single sub and building a nice size box for it rather than trying to cramp alot of big subs in a small space.

[DUBIE]

do you hear the rattle though?

when i looked at it all i figured it would never work, until i took off the trunk trim panel. This gave me over 6" but left everything open and left big holes in the trunk which i realise is no good, i want all that air up front not stuck in the lid.

So i pulled some material over the trunk lid and glassed it all, i did about 5 layers of resin and some fibreglass then put some 4mm deadening on it, its now pretty damn solid so i,m hoping the airs gonna hit that and flow up front nicely.

Before i had subs and port up, it sounded very loud and did pretty hard hairtricks but only hit a 146.8 at 38hz with windows open(2 lvl5 15's on a xxx6500 , now it will be subs up port back and i just hope its still gonna move all that air but be louder too (2 lvl5 18's with a saz3500 on each).

if i hear the rattles in the outside??..fuck yeah!!..BAD..well you could hear bass and rattles so its alright IMO.. but my box is sub up port back so i dont know if thats a major difference..but i wana port my sub thru the rear deck.. and get rid of the rattle and get more bass output..