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Up in Smoke,thats where my money goes


PUNKYOU007

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so i hop in my truck to goto my pops house, turn the truck on, the radio comes on, the vol is at 35 out of 80 the bass knob is all the way down. after about 15 sec i hear a little pop so i look back and see smoke coming from one of my sub amps. i take it out and this is what i find:

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in the 2 pics above ^ you can see the two burnt resistors

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in the 3 pics above ^ you can see the burnt diode on the left and what a good diode looks like just to the right of the capacitor

so i found one burnt diode and two burnt resistors. with the vol down and the bass not even playing i have no idea what could have gone wrong. do you think this is repairable? any ideas on what could have caused this?

TeamDeadlyHertz-PUNKYOU007.png

d(-__-)b

beer sucks...but i can bring some jose cuervo. Only problem is that it makes me horny and gives me the rams. So unless yall wanna fight and then have some great make up sex i will leave it home.

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That's a rockford amp isn't it?

What's died there is your drive circuitry which suggests the power supply may have taken a shit as well.

Being surface mount and MEHSA they're a total bitch to work on. Might be a paperweight unfortunately.

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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That's a rockford amp isn't it?

What's died there is your drive circuitry which suggests the power supply may have taken a shit as well.

Being surface mount and MEHSA they're a total bitch to work on. Might be a paperweight unfortunately.

I've repaired rockford Power series amps before....they are a pain in the balls what amp was it?

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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RF Punch 800a2 old "black and grind" series

TeamDeadlyHertz-PUNKYOU007.png

d(-__-)b

beer sucks...but i can bring some jose cuervo. Only problem is that it makes me horny and gives me the rams. So unless yall wanna fight and then have some great make up sex i will leave it home.

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There's your problem...

100_1713.jpg

Ya think?

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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LOL, yeah im aware of the problem thanks. :) in my state of morning that made me laugh

just wondering what might have caused it and if its repairable?

TeamDeadlyHertz-PUNKYOU007.png

d(-__-)b

beer sucks...but i can bring some jose cuervo. Only problem is that it makes me horny and gives me the rams. So unless yall wanna fight and then have some great make up sex i will leave it home.

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Share on other sites

Output MOSFET (these do use mosfet output sections don't they?) failing, transformer short, power mosfet failing, mayyyybe a rail cap shitting itself then the power MOSFETs failing accordingly.... all sorts. Usually the output section goes before the power section in Class A/B amps so it's fairly likely that the amp has taken a complete swandive.

It is repairable but because they're such a bitch to work on it'll probably cost you quite a bit. Also has to go to a serious amp repair specialist, you need special (expensive) equipment to work on those surface mount parts like those 4 drive transistors that have smoked.

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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