Box for trunk in a 2010 Lancer

[siucsaluki11]

Well ive been getting bored, and anxious. I miss having a stereo. But im saving up for a T2000 15. I took some measurements of my trunk, and opened up sketchup. This is a bit over 4 cubes, tuned around 35-36 Hz, 70 in^2 of port area, 1.5" walls. Some bracing. Im going for a SOLID box, i figure this should be alright. Will be giving the sub between 2000-3000 watts RMS.

And since im editing, heres a few for 3 DD1508s

EDIT: Forgot Pics

Edited December 8, 2009 by siucsaluki11

[HHR Ed]

looks good, I dont think I would change anything

[Decaf]

Well ive been getting bored, and anxious. I miss having a stereo. But im saving up for a T2000 15. I took some measurements of my trunk, and opened up sketchup. This is a bit over 4 cubes, tuned around 35-36 Hz, 70 in^2 of port area, 1.5" walls. Some bracing. Im going for a SOLID box, i figure this should be alright. Will be giving the sub between 2000-3000 watts RMS.

ur not measuring port length correctly

u need to include 1/2 the length of the flare... so u are tuned lower than u think

id throw another small 45 to the right of the sub

and do a top to bottom dowel as well

ur not going to want to do u top/bottom like that, how its like a puzzle piece. if u are barely off with ur outerpanels ur not going to be able to fit it in the way u have it, it looks great on sketchup but its pretty hard to pull of infront of u

Edited December 9, 2009 by Decaf

[siucsaluki11]

another top to bottom where? In the port?. Ive got a few in the box already. You think itd be too hard all jigsawed in like that. If so ill abandon that idea, though i think itd be cool to do it that way. IDK if i could pull it off but would it make any difference?

[Decaf]

u know how its double baffled...? its going to be hard to insert the 1st inner top piece since it has to fit inside the outerpanels that make the sides and back... this is really hard to do

ur best bet is to have ur top and bottom be the entire width and depth... it will eliminate alot of hassle cutting and sanding

and as long as ur joints are well made its not going to be any stronger doing it the way u have it currently

maybe on a cnc or badazz table saw

u could also use pvc on the port 45 so u retain the benefits of flaring

[siucsaluki11]

u know how its double baffled...? its going to be hard to insert the 1st inner top piece since it has to fit inside the outerpanels that make the sides and back... this is really hard to do

ur best bet is to have ur top and bottom be the entire width and depth... it will eliminate alot of hassle cutting and sanding

and as long as ur joints are well made its not going to be any stronger doing it the way u have it currently

maybe on a cnc or badazz table saw

u could also use pvc on the port 45 so u retain the benefits of flaring

I got what ur sayin there, i was asking where were you sayin to throw another vertical dowel brace

[Domo Kai]

Fill the gap behind the kerf with Resin make that bish rock solid

[Decaf]

I got what ur sayin there, i was asking where were you sayin to throw another vertical dowel brace

heres where the dowel should go and where the port length starts

round over the back of the port too since its 1.5" thick... dont skimp anywhere when it comes to rounding

the dowel in the port wont be needed since its doubled walled and braced on the inner port wall... that dowel actually will create more turbulence

when u have a weak outer port wall its worth the sacrifice to add the dowel in for support, but in ur case u dont need it and might as well have an unrestricted port for the lowest mach possible

Fill the gap behind the kerf with Resin make that bish rock solid

thats a chit ton of resin!! total waste... resin the kerf yes but no need to fill it... thatd be a gallon or more just there

Edited December 9, 2009 by Decaf

[Domo Kai]

thats a chit ton of resin!! total waste... resin the kerf yes but no need to fill it... thatd be a gallon or more just there

Make the initial investment and don't ever question it he said he wanted bomb shelter status- double walls all the way around why not invest a few extra dollars to fill the void between panels? pretty simple mix and pour if it were my box I'd do it

[Decaf]

what arent u getting tho domo, it wont cure correctly if u fill it

and its not even a part of the enclosure experiencing large amounts of pressure... the 45 on the inside will take care of that and its the flare of the port which means pressure will decrease dramatically on the flare as u move along it... thats the point of the flare, to reduce turbulence and friction so u can excite the air outside the box better/easier!

and a layer of resin, mat, resin+mat and resin which is 1/8 thick is strong enough

its a waste imo, but what do i know

Edited December 9, 2009 by Decaf