white4d96 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 The PassLock on my Grand Prix took a sh*t this weekend, and stopped sending voltage to the switched wire on the starter solenoid (the purple wire for those 3100 owners.) I am thinking about wiring in a pushbutton for this input so I don't have to start my car with a wrench constantly (not reliable at all, plus it will probably kill the starter real quick.) I would like to have it on or under the dash but I could stand to have it under the hood for simplicity's sake. Anyone know what I need to do? Is it just like a remote wire or does it need to handle some amperage? Thanks for the help. Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jl10w3s Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 The PassLock on my Grand Prix took a sh*t this weekend, and stopped sending voltage to the switched wire on the starter solenoid (the purple wire for those 3100 owners.) I am thinking about wiring in a pushbutton for this input so I don't have to start my car with a wrench constantly (not reliable at all, plus it will probably kill the starter real quick.) I would like to have it on or under the dash but I could stand to have it under the hood for simplicity's sake. Anyone know what I need to do? Is it just like a remote wire or does it need to handle some amperage?Thanks for the help. when my switched to my solenoid went out on my pathfinder and i didn't wanna fix it the right way .I wired some 14 ga. primary wire from batt. to a flip switch then wire from the switch to a push button starter then from that to the starter solenoid and i ve been using it that way for about 6 months now and no problems so far. i use the switch to take the constant power away from the push button so it lasts longer, or so i ve been told. hope that helps ya out some. Quote (2001 Dodge Durango R/T) 1- XS Power D2700 1-Alpine CDE-HD149BT (Head Unit) 1 pr.- Focal Polyglass 165v30 (Front Stage) 1 pr.- Hybrid Audio Technologies C61-2 (Rear Fill) 1-Kenwood Excelon XR-1S (Sub Amp) 1-Kenwood Excelon XR-4S (Mids-N-Highs Amp) 2- JL 10 W3v3-4 (Subs) -2.3 Cubes tuned to 32 hz 1-1/0 ga. & Big III in 1/0 140 @45 hz db drag legal (2008 Toyota Highlander Limited ---build in the works) 1- Kenwood DDX470 (Head Unit) 1 pr.- JL C3-650 (Front Stage) 1 pr.- JL C2-525 (Rear Fill, may upgrade to 6.5" C2 or C3 instead) 1- JL XD-400/4 (Mids-N-Highs Amp) 1- JL XD-600/1 (Sub Amp) 1- XS Power D3400 1- JL 10w3v3-2 (Sub) 1- JL 2 Ga. Amp Kit 1- BIG 3 in 1/0 1- self-built Fiberglass sub enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) You're going to want to activate a relay at the starter... if you don't want to do that I'd recommend at least 10gauge wire if you are going to use a straight switch. Edited January 19, 2010 by Shyne151 Quote -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddemon0308 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 you should be fine with some 14 guage wire.. yoru not running much power threw it.. all yoru doing is sending some power to a plunger type thing to shoot it up and connect 2 pwoers then send power to the starter. so what you do is take a + wire put it on one side of the switch/push button then the other side to the terminal where the wire would connect on the solinoid/ starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 Actually now that I look at your avatar... isn't that car VATS not passlock? is there a little black pellet with a piece of metal in the middle on it? Quote -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loburbon Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 lucky for you i had this same problem with my wifes alero, gm's passlock is the biggest piece of shit around. what your wanting to do is so simple a trained monkey can do it. First find a location where you want to put your switch, then run a 12v hot wire to one side of the switch, then run a wire down to the starter post that has your ignition wire to it. thats it your done. make sure you leave the original ignition switch intact, because the passlock isnt working but the computer is still reading the code from your key. My wifes car has been like this for almost 6 months now without a single problem. Hell a $10 switch and an hour's worth of time is alot better then the $400 to replace it Quote 2000 gmc yukon 4 sundown Zv3 15's 4 dd m2a's kenwood kdc-x994 2 batcap 4000's 1 batcap 2000 dual alts. 154@37hz and climbing http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3231683 http://www.myspace.com/torque150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phive Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 On GM's a couple of 99 cent resistor packs, and a multimeter, and you can fix PK or VATS. Quote Front Stage: Kicker QS 65.2 Components, MB Quart Reference 5.25 in the a pillars, Midbass: Kicker CVT8's in the rear doors, Headunit: Pioneer DEHP880PRS - Running Active Amps: US AMPS XT1600.4/XT800.4 No beat yet. Twitter Soon as remote start season ends, I'll be able to work on my car some more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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