NcHalfrican Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 (edited) ok, so ive done some tweaking and this new box is for two dd9510g's tuned at 33hz...im gonna be running 2500+watts a sub. there will be 45's is all the corner, but im kinda lost as far as bracing : / could use some help for bracing placement and what to use heres a pic Edited January 25, 2010 by NcHalfrican Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 You will want to place the braces laterally (parallel to the top and bottom of the box) inside the ports. Round them over really well on their leading edges with a router bit and you're good. Actually, you will want to round ALL the peices inside the port. Also, have you thought of putting small 45s in the corners? You really need to do that, even if it's only a 1.5 inches from the inside. You need something to keep the air flowing through your corners since you have so many of them. This box should bang if you build it right. Just pay attention to AIRFLOW inside your port for maximum effect. The formulas that you used to predict this enclosure's behavior can't predict turbulence since turbulence is, by definition, chaotic. You can't predict chaos. Only when the airflow is smooth and even can we accurately model a port's performance before we make it! Good Luck! :hairtrick: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 lol, u need to change ur template to feet inches 3d achitectural turn off guides and axes and its easier to see ur drawin how u gonna cut 31/64ths.... haha just use 1/4 as the smallest increment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sampsonite Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 lol, u need to change ur template to feet inches 3d achitecturalturn off guides and axes and its easier to see ur drawin how u gonna cut 31/64ths.... haha just use 1/4 as the smallest increment Then check "snap to: 1/4" Quote --Sampson 816-591-6592 www.kcrimshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NcHalfrican Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 You will want to place the braces laterally (parallel to the top and bottom of the box) inside the ports. Round them over really well on their leading edges with a router bit and you're good. Actually, you will want to round ALL the peices inside the port.Also, have you thought of putting small 45s in the corners? You really need to do that, even if it's only a 1.5 inches from the inside. You need something to keep the air flowing through your corners since you have so many of them. This box should bang if you build it right. Just pay attention to AIRFLOW inside your port for maximum effect. The formulas that you used to predict this enclosure's behavior can't predict turbulence since turbulence is, by definition, chaotic. You can't predict chaos. Only when the airflow is smooth and even can we accurately model a port's performance before we make it! Good Luck! :hairtrick: how much space between the the braces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NcHalfrican Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 lol, u need to change ur template to feet inches 3d achitecturalturn off guides and axes and its easier to see ur drawin how u gonna cut 31/64ths.... haha just use 1/4 as the smallest increment lol ya, thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NcHalfrican Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Then check "snap to: 1/4" ty ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Do you see that long end of your port? Imagine if you had a long peice of 1/2 inch mdf that is the same width as the port. That is your brace. Lay that peice inside the port. Got it? Ok, now raise it up halfway.... In reality, your brace would not need to go down the whole lenght of the port, but you get the picture. Then, you could glue two dowels (space them out) onto each of those fingers you have forming the wiggly shape of the port and have a very strong box that ties into the center braces. You're going to run 5000 watts in a transmission line and not double that front baffle, are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 1. 9510's will hate that box. If you want to do something exotic, pay PWK for the 95 horn. Otherwise just do a big frickin' ported box. You don't want to encourage a 9510 mechanically (which is what a t-line does) or you'll smash up your cones in no time. 2. You don't need to brace when you have a line like that... the box braces itself. 3. Just say no to dual-exit t-lines. You already have 2 different phases in the car, why introduce a third? Quote 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 (edited) Good points, Boon. 2500 watts RMS per sub is an ungodly amount of power in a transmission line. However, I have played with many, many subwoofers that can take a lot more mechanical abuse than you would suspect. I say it would damage the coil eletrically before the mechanical limits become apparant. You will want to pay extra attention to your amp(s) subsonic filter though and be responsible with the volume knob. I say build it and see how it does. BOSE does this kind of stuff all the time. Let him builld his box; this probably won't be his last exotic box, so he needs to do this one. Edited January 25, 2010 by Ben Building Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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