teamace24 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Im finally doing the bog 3 in the next few days all with knukonceptz 0 gauge fleks ofc, and i took pictures of my hood to get ideas on how exactly im going to do it and if im doing the 3 right. I am only running one huge 100 pound C&D battery that does around 139 ah model C&D UPS12-490MR with my stock 160 amp alternator on my 2007 yukon. Plan on running an audioque 1200 watt amp with two sdc 2.5 15 subs. Big 3: 1) Alternator + to Battery + : This one is straight forward just will get my wire put ring terminals on each end attach one to the alternator without removing the bolt, and attach the other to the battery positive. I am going no fuse unless someone thinks i should. This is where i get stuck i need to know the best place to attach my grounds to and if someone can point them out on the pics. 2)Battery - to chassis or frame same thing? : obviously again it will be ring terminals on each end one going to the battery negative and the other part is where im stuck, does anybody see that welding wire in the first picture its coming from either the engine block i think or maybe the frame, it might be where the factory engine to frame ground is, What can i do with this? 3) Chassis or frame to engine block : Also stuck but im sure whenever i find my chassis frame this will be where im going to put one end of my wire as well and then i have to find an engine block ground Also are my two grounds going to piggy back on each other at the chassis frame and is this recommended? Please ignore my current wiring as i will have 0 gauge fleks now instead of these cheap wires plus this was done by an older brother for a little cheap 400 watt amp now im upgrading. Quote 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_stud Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 i'd do it right to that strut tower, when you do it just grind the paint off Quote 1998 Nissan 200sx NOW: Dex-p98r head Planet Audio 300.4 mids and highs Planet Audio/Pioneer tweeters/crossovers Skar SK1500.1 3 SKAR Vvx15 dual 4 wired at .63 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) from your alt pos to batt pos from your alt mounting bracket to neg out to strut tower (the blue would be your ground in photo) shit i didnt see where the struts were i thought they was up top after seeing there right in the line of the alt to neg thats even better for ya Edited February 19, 2010 by uhoh_45 Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamace24 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 from your alt pos to batt pos from your alt mounting bracket to neg out to strut tower (the blue would be your ground in photo) shit i didnt see where the struts were i thought they was up top after seeing there right in the line of the alt to neg thats even better for ya I heard the alt bracket is not the greatest place a while back but if you think so then i will do it. Im not quite understanding your last sentence does that mean that your picture which i was going to follow is still right or do i just go alternator brack to negative or where is that strut bolt by the alternator or by the driver window where your blue line ends. Thanks. Quote 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 i thought your struts were up top (where the blue goes up) and the alt is the best ground to use heres better pic (the yellow is optional but worth doing if you have the wire) Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakenshake8 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 umm do you have to put a neg on the alt i mean i just put a better power to mine didnt help much i have a 150 amp don't know the brand but yeah lights still flicker . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamace24 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 i thought your struts were up top (where the blue goes up) and the alt is the best ground to use heres better pic (the yellow is optional but worth doing if you have the wire) Cool yeah i have plenty of 0 gauge so are you saying with that picture my big 3 is covered of course with the alt to positive as well. Its just that i always read that engine block to frame and battery negative to frame so is yours the same. Like does the alt bracket mean engine block or frame and what does that yellow mark mean does that connect to frame or engine block. Thanks for all the help. Quote 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) the alt bracket is an engine mount ground and the strut is the frame ground and the yellow is an engine ground to frame ground and they both go to neg of batt and you want your POS from alot to go to your POS battery Noobtastic has a video out there of his grounds i'll try and find it for ya and my big 3 consists of alt + to + alt ground/frame ground straight to - of battery and from - to fame/strut name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> Edited February 19, 2010 by uhoh_45 Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamace24 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 the alt bracket is an engine mount ground and the strut is the frame ground and the yellow is an engine ground to frame ground and they both go to neg of batt and you want your POS from alot to go to your POS battery Noobtastic has a video out there of his grounds i'll try and find it for ya and my big 3 consists of alt + to + alt ground/frame ground straight to - of battery and from - to fame/strut Wow what a help i was stressing over this just a little but you pretty much laid all out there for me and to think i ordered so much 0 gauge for the big 3 and now i dont need it. One last question, which wires will i need to protect like will i have to route them somewhere or just how you have them drawn? I think i can put them in that black casing that stock cables are in around the engine. Quote 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 you shouldnt need to worry about looming the wires, and its not like you've got little room to work with so routing the wires and keeping them nice safe and tucked away shouldnt be a problem just keep it clean use zip ties keep it out the way of shit that gets hot and out of the way of moving things (belts and what not) Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.