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Running Kicker Comp C12's off 300w


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Posted
i think we finally fouind the answer to powering a funky pup! thank god now i can 200 db.

anyone else curious what tech support said?

probally hung up on his ars after he said he i need proof

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Posted

2 the person that started the topic

go back 2 school and get the basic math down be4 u get into audio

and u fail hardcore

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________________________________________________________________________

deepsilencer, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:32, said:

splzx3, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:27, said:

i had my fun on one of his videos...till he blocked me then i got my mother into it lol after her he closed the comments xD

lol your mom is a G! good.gif

WTF, I never thought I'd have a conversation about cross dressers and trans-genders on a car audio forum.

Posted
Third-party-facepalm.jpg

R.I.P '01 blazer you treated my ears well until your transmission blew up.

New Project

[top secret]

149.0 db on music driver window open; so close

I feel some boners are fueled by viagra and not true intimacy!......if you know what i mean....

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Posted

Are your subs 4 ohm single voice coil?

If they are then your wiring options are 1 ohm (all coils in parallel) or 4 ohm (2 coils parallel, 2 coils series). Your amplifier will put out either 600w RMS into a 1 ohm load, or 300w RMS into a 4 ohm load. The amplifier only sees a single final impedance (ohm) load and does not see each individual subwoofer. Amplifiers can only output their rated power once and will not multiply this output based on the number of connected devices.

You can verify this yourself by placing 50 amps worth of fuses before the amplifier. 50 amps will support 720 watts at 14.4 volts. If your amp blows the fuses in less than about 10 seconds I would be very surprised, if it manages to at all.

As someone somewhat made an example of before, you need to think of amplifiers as a bank. The output they give you is strictly limited based on the internal configuration. Your amplifier maxes out at 600w and no more.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

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Posted
Then don't ask for help if you wont take what people give you man. Almost everyone on this forum will back up that 300w / 4 is 75w per sub. Use a calculator. Theres the proof.

If that's so, then my subs fucking pound on 75 watts because half way up gave me a head ache so I guess... I'm gonna stick with my 75 watts.

| S-10 | 4.5^3 ft | 33Hz | SAE-1000D @ 1 Ohm | 2 SA-12s |

SPL: 143.7 Sealed | 153.4 Port Wars

Posted

ok congrats, and for the record. its still 300 watts not 75 if its wired to 4 ohms its just 75 per woofer. thats what we're trying to explain to you. what did tech support say by the way?

R.I.P '01 blazer you treated my ears well until your transmission blew up.

New Project

[top secret]

149.0 db on music driver window open; so close

I feel some boners are fueled by viagra and not true intimacy!......if you know what i mean....

I swear... sometimes I wish I was retarded so I could just agree with everyone x.
Posted
ok congrats, and for the record. its still 300 watts not 75 if its wired to 4 ohms its just 75 per woofer. thats what we're trying to explain to you. what did tech support say by the way?

Sorry, but our offices are not open on sundays, please call back on monday between [insert some time fram here]

| S-10 | 4.5^3 ft | 33Hz | SAE-1000D @ 1 Ohm | 2 SA-12s |

SPL: 143.7 Sealed | 153.4 Port Wars

Posted

It doesnt take a lot of power to get stuff happening when you have a lot of cone area ;)

But with lots of power and lots of cone area more fun things start to happen lol ;)

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

Posted

dude kicker comps only come in a single 4ohm or single 8ohm config..... so your final load will be 1 ohm or 2 ohm which is all positive wired together and all negatives wired together before the amp (series)

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Posted
dude kicker comps only come in a single 4ohm or single 8ohm config..... so your final load will be 1 ohm or 2 ohm which is all positive wired together and all negatives wired together before the amp (series)

incorrect. they only come in single 4ohm or single 2ohm. This aint no home audio stuff. 8ohm car audio... ftw..??

Rowan University Electrical Engineering

LINK TO MY BUILDDDDD

Current Setup in my 00' Hyundai Accent:

Pioneer DEH-P6900UB

RE.6.5C AUDIO 500w 6.5" COMPONENT CAR SPEAKERS

Eclipse SE 6500 (6.5 coax in rear deck)

two Kicker C124's in a t-line tuned to 28.6Hz

Kenwood KAC-7204

US amps 1600.4 V2

Upcoming Build this summer:

T-Line enclosure for two C124's tuned to 28ish hz O_O

amp my speakers with a US amps 1600.4.

Second Skin Should be fun ^_^

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