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irragi 300


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:unsure: Lock??? :unsure:

EDIT: and the reason i say this is because it LOOKS like it's turning into a pissing match but thats just MO.

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06 Impala SS
Kenwood Excelon DDX593

Ampere Audio 150.4

Ampere Audio 5K
1 XS D4700 (front)
Mechman 320a Alt. w/ Big 3

Lots of Second Skin Damplifier

Under Construction for 2017

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we run dc in the blazer.. its pushing out its power and thats all that matters... as i live with the owner now it wasnt my decision on what alt to buy... i was unbaised and told him either was a good alt.. he chose dc.. I cannot complain BOTH companys responded quickly and helped us out in the long run.. Rob had our alt shipped that day and it was here within a week.. Its giving VERY little voltage drop to the 2600 bxi.. it may drop to 13.5 but thats it.. I would in a heart beat go for a dc because of the way i was treated.. I personally have not had an iraggi (i would love to have one for my mach 1) but from a few local guys running them they are great great alts.. i cant bash either company because with my experience with both company's they both do what they are supposed to... Both companys have their downsides and not every alt is perfect... Dom had that thing with the used parts... dc has this... i personally dont give two flying fucks what other people had for experience aslong as my experience was good.. and it is for both company's... you cannot go wrong with either company

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The set up your talking about would sound great in my Tahoe. Trade you my dog for it. He has one eye but that only makes for bad depth perception so hey so what if he is running into shit, look at it this way he is easy to sneak up ninja style on. (right side only)
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i'll just say this, i'll stay with the company that my alternator isnt gonna catch fire and when i send it to them get the bullshit that they never got it and that they have no record of me even buying it.

People are going to have thier favorites, for some people Iraggi is going to give you the better service, others DC power is going to be best for you. In the end no matter what the excuses on reither side , a customer just wants thier stuff and they want it to work. they dont want to hear that it was install ever no matter whats wrong, that theres no possibility that you have a single failure in your alternator line up.

On the other hand on both sides theres been times either sides been hard to get ahold of. Over the years i've used pretty much every alternator company theres something that bothers me wether it be a little thing or large thing about every single one of them.

At the end of the day my business isnt in alternators though, i dont know everything there is to know about alternators , so i would like to trust that the company that i do call DOES know everything, its kinda like going to a doctor and a doctor saying sorry not gonna do that kidney transplant you drank to much soda. In my opinion its in your businesses best interest customer s fault or not to help that customer in whatever way possible rather then just pretty much give them the boot.

in the past EA did me well, never had an issue with nates alts, but found out alot after the fact that my alt didnt do near what i was supposedly bought in for. that alone bugs me pretty bad, i shouldnt have to have a competitor alternator company test anyones alternator because im unable to trust the alternator industy because theres far more scammer companys then reliable ones.

I have at this moment messed with more DC power alts then any other companies alts. while robbie at times in my case has been a bit slow to take care of me, i havent one time had to worry about my alternators frying and i actually trust that im getting what im told im getting or have got. I was even lucky enough to have the owner of the company drive 4+ hours to me just because he wanted to hang out, imo thats kinda cool

anyhow, i just feel the alternator industry as part of the audio community has been the one place over the past 8-10 years thats always been kinda ehhhh who should i go with because nobody that doesnt make alternators knows for sure what they are getting

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And I did reply to that very question above.. "Top end is top end, 300+ amps is more than 270, but idle output, forget it.." I didn't start bashing, the only thing I said was not even close, and then came back and posted why. I could get more in depth, go in to every detail and give you a whole laundry list of why, but it wouldn't serve any good purpose, only fuel the fire. But, in comparing what you asked, I can assure you like I said the difference is not even close..

And Dom, saying you have an employee that has a 300 amp alternator that does 200 + at idle, but then saying "His car does idle a little higher than most... about 850-900" is pretty much saying that it will only do that at 900 RPM... That would like me saying my truck will do 250 at idle, mine just idles at 900 RPM and the alternator is turning 3400 RPM not 2000 like a normal car.. Way to skew the numbers...

When a customer askes the famous question of "how much idle amperage does this alt do" Its IMPOSSIBLE to tell them a number of what they are actually asking unless you know their idle rpm and crank pulley diameter. They dont give two shits about what it does at 2000 or 2400 alt rpm... they want to know what it does on their car. Not average or someone elses car.

So my employee with a 2000 Impala gets 214 amps at idle with a 2" pulley not a 1.8" pulley like some companies use. That is what the customer wants to know.. Im not skewing anything. Im trying to give some real world numbers. If he used our overdrive pulley he would be getting well over 250-260 at idle. What is wrong with telling a customer what an alt will do on their own car?

Idle rpm on 99% of cars range from 500 to 1000 rpm. (most are 6-750) Crank pulley sizes range from 4.5" to 8". The industry standard for idle output has been 2400 alternator rpm for years. 800rpm idle and 3:1 pulley ratio. I think it doesnt mean much tho and I try and give all customers the idle numbers that they will see on their car. Not just a ballpark.

:unsure: Lock??? :unsure:

EDIT: and the reason i say this is because it LOOKS like it's turning into a pissing match but thats just MO.

I dont see any reason for posts like this to be locked. Discussions like this need to be on here unless they just get out of hand. This one seems like some casual discussion so far.

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Guest DC Power Rob

So my employee with a 2000 Impala gets 214 amps at idle with a 2" pulley not a 1.8" pulley like some companies use. That is what the customer wants to know.. Im not skewing anything. Im trying to give some real world numbers. If he used our overdrive pulley he would be getting well over 250-260 at idle. What is wrong with telling a customer what an alt will do on their own car?

Idle rpm on 99% of cars range from 500 to 1000 rpm. (most are 6-750) Crank pulley sizes range from 4.5" to 8". The industry standard for idle output has been 2400 alternator rpm for years. 800rpm idle and 3:1 pulley ratio. I think it doesnt mean much tho and I try and give all customers the idle numbers that they will see on their car. Not just a ballpark.

Because 99% of the time, it's not even close. Dom, even your smart enough to know that.. I've done quite a lot of installs on that same vintage Impala, and know for fact that warmed up they only idle at about 550-600 just like every modern GM car does (where about 98% of ALL modern cars are) and with a 2.0" pulley on it it's only turning around 2150-2200 at the alternator (unless of course my laser tach is all fuxored up which I know it's not).. Try getting those numbers on a Toyota with a 6" crank pulley and 500 at idle, it wont happen... I also know that that 300, 320 whatever (yeah, mine do exactly the same numbers) wont do anywhere close to 200 at idle at that speed. That alternator wont break 200 amps until after 3000 rotor, not even close. Neither will an AD alternator over 300 amps.. So, telling the average Joe that what your employees car does, is what their car is going to do is just not true so I dont know why speak it like it's gospel. So if you say it will do 250-260 at idle with an overdrive pulley on it, back it up. Bust out your video cam and show some proof.. Just make sure and back it up with a laser tach showing crank and alternator RPM because I know it wont do it at idle, and so do you..

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Because 99% of the time, it's not even close. Dom, even your smart enough to know that.. I've done quite a lot of installs on that same vintage Impala, and know for fact that warmed up they only idle at about 550-600 just like every modern GM car does (where about 98% of ALL modern cars are) and with a 2.0" pulley on it it's only turning around 2150-2200 at the alternator (unless of course my laser tach is all fuxored up which I know it's not).. Try getting those numbers on a Toyota with a 6" crank pulley and 500 at idle, it wont happen... I also know that that 300, 320 whatever (yeah, mine do exactly the same numbers) wont do anywhere close to 200 at idle at that speed. That alternator wont break 200 amps until after 3000 rotor, not even close. Neither will an AD alternator over 300 amps.. So, telling the average Joe that what your employees car does, is what their car is going to do is just not true so I dont know why speak it like it's gospel. So if you say it will do 250-260 at idle with an overdrive pulley on it, back it up. Bust out your video cam and show some proof.. Just make sure and back it up with a laser tach showing crank and alternator RPM because I know it wont do it at idle, and so do you..

Good point but... Dom HAS put up at least SOME proof I have yet to see you do the same. I have NEITHER of your alts and I can see from here the biased opinions on BOTH sides. But Dom has at least posted a video showing what their alts can do with or without the laser

1998 Plymouth Voyager (daily)

Jensen VM9213 H.U. (I Know but I havent had any problems.... yet)

5.25" Factory -> Sound Stream SST5.2

6x9 Hifonics ZXi 693 -> Sound Stream SST6.9

Amp: Class D: Crescendo 3KWP (x2)

Class A/B: Crescendo 1000C4

Sub: Almani S-7 10" (x6)

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ok we will solve this... both of you send me a alt for my mach and ill hook it up to my mach Lol jp..

Tim-Sig.png

62491252.png

The set up your talking about would sound great in my Tahoe. Trade you my dog for it. He has one eye but that only makes for bad depth perception so hey so what if he is running into shit, look at it this way he is easy to sneak up ninja style on. (right side only)
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Good point but... Dom HAS put up at least SOME proof I have yet to see you do the same. I have NEITHER of your alts and I can see from here the biased opinions on BOTH sides. But Dom has at least posted a video showing what their alts can do with or without the laser

a quick search came up with this Kyles 270 XP

Team S.M.D.

Maritime Car Audio- (2) 18" SSA ZCON D1

- American Bass 500.1

- 60 ft of 3/0

-480 Ah of battery

- (2) stock alternators (70 +90)

- Kenwood Excelon x-794, 4v preouts

car audio is just a LOT more complicated than "this amp does this power" or "this sub will be this loud". its like 2 + 2 = banana. (if that confuses you then you get the point) lol
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Guest DC Power Rob

Good point but... Dom HAS put up at least SOME proof I have yet to see you do the same. I have NEITHER of your alts and I can see from here the biased opinions on BOTH sides. But Dom has at least posted a video showing what their alts can do with or without the laser

Your right.. There are video's, but all you see is numbers, which although are somewhat relevant, they only show part of the picture.. If you want to see the whole picture, then watch this.... http://www.youtube.c...player_embedded

That show's, everything, twice.. In any event, in about 2 more weeks I'll have $50k worth of proof sitting in the shop in the form of a new test bench.. Then anything you buy from us will come with it's own birthsheet, no BS, no questions, no guessing, just facts.. And believe me, there will be plenty of video's coming that will really open your eyes...

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Because 99% of the time, it's not even close. Dom, even your smart enough to know that.. I've done quite a lot of installs on that same vintage Impala, and know for fact that warmed up they only idle at about 550-600 just like every modern GM car does (where about 98% of ALL modern cars are) and with a 2.0" pulley on it it's only turning around 2150-2200 at the alternator (unless of course my laser tach is all fuxored up which I know it's not).. Try getting those numbers on a Toyota with a 6" crank pulley and 500 at idle, it wont happen... I also know that that 300, 320 whatever (yeah, mine do exactly the same numbers) wont do anywhere close to 200 at idle at that speed. That alternator wont break 200 amps until after 3000 rotor, not even close. Neither will an AD alternator over 300 amps.. So, telling the average Joe that what your employees car does, is what their car is going to do is just not true so I dont know why speak it like it's gospel. So if you say it will do 250-260 at idle with an overdrive pulley on it, back it up. Bust out your video cam and show some proof.. Just make sure and back it up with a laser tach showing crank and alternator RPM because I know it wont do it at idle, and so do you..

The idle rpm numbers from vehicle to vehicle are all over the place. The average is close to 750 rpm but knowing the average is not good enough. Some are much higher and some much lower. As far as the "even your smart enough to know that" comment... You have no idea...

"Vintage" Impala? Vintage is more like a 63 or 64 Impala.. Not a 2000 model. And yes... they do idle at 900-1000 rpm after warming up. My 94 Grand Prix is the same. 950 after warmup.

I was giving an example of output on a certain car. Not a Toyota. Maybe next time Ill post every car I have ever build an alt for and post all the numbers. Would that make you happy? :)

My employee now has dual 300's on his Vintage 2000 Impala. You want those vids?

Im not going to sit here and argue with you about everything. Dont have the time. Not enough hours in the day.

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