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Hifonics?


imupabove

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im looking at the following Hifonics amps: BXI1210D, BXI1610D, and BXI2010D. i need an amp to power 2 12" T1's. i heard Hifonics overrate their amps? but which amp will be a good match for my subs? open to any other amps, my limit is $200-260 on an amp. thanks.

iDA-X200/Clarion EQS746

RF T500-1bd

(2) 12" RF HX's

Kicker 350.4

Alpine & Polk Speakers

Stock electrical

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im looking at the following Hifonics amps: BXI1210D, BXI1610D, and BXI2010D. i need an amp to power 2 12" T1's. i heard Hifonics overrate their amps? but which amp will be a good match for my subs? open to any other amps, my limit is $200-260 on an amp. thanks.

Yes, Hifonics overate slightly. my BXi 1610D climps at 1500watts to be safe will say 1400. so 200 watts. Now, depending on the speaker ohms and how you want to wire them, 2010D should match up... this amp should fit your budget nicely, but look around online for deals or hit the Maxxsonics portion of this forum.

HU: Kenwood KDC-MP745U.

Sub: AQ HDC 15

Amp: Hifonics BXi 1610D for sub, ZXi 6410 for mids highs

Speakers: 6.5 premium MB Quarts components,6.5 MB Quart premium coaxial back doors

Wiring: KLMX Kable 1/0g for Big 3.Double up 4g from battery to trunk...for now.

Big 3: YUP!

Battery: Shuriken SK-BT35 to the trunk.

Randoms: Flush mounted Stinger blue digital voltmeter. Flush mounted Memphis 7band EQ- 16-EQ50. phoenix gold 2 channel line driver.

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hifonics amps are really good for the money. My buddy has the BXI1610D amp for his 2 10" type r's 2x2ohm wired at .5 ohms and the amp works like a champ. It hits hard and clean. It depends on what your subs are rated for and what ohms they are.

600rms/1200max, both are dual 2 ohms.

iDA-X200/Clarion EQS746

RF T500-1bd

(2) 12" RF HX's

Kicker 350.4

Alpine & Polk Speakers

Stock electrical

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ok.

The BXI1610D is rated for 1600 rms x 1ohm. take away some of your watts loss due to wiring (because we all know its hard without spending a lot of money to get all 1600 to use), your subs will be roughly receiving 150 watts over (per sub) or 75 watts over (per coil) IF you wired it at a .5 ohm, you will probably (just a guess) but up to 1600 or a little over in watts going out. My buddy did this with his type r's. his type r's are receiving about 200-250 watts over what they are rated for, and there is no problem with them.

now you could wire it to 2 ohms and push 1100 watts through, but then you are looking at a shortage of 50 watts per coil loss.

If I had to pick, use the BXI1610D and wire it to .5 ohms and see how it goes...have your gain and stuff turned down at first and dont bump the s**t out of them right away. 1600watts (or about 1500) is enough for your subs....

hope this helps some..

Edited by mattB9097
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Just to say, wiring to .5 ohms might work and if you have enough electrical to keep the voltage from dropping you should be ok. if you're only pushing 1600 or so it wont require that much electrical. but my point here is this:

wiring down to .5 might work , but it will put a larger strain on the amp and more importantly it might VOID the warranty, and if the amp does fail at .5 ohm you might be sol. you might very well be fine running the amp like that, but its just something to keep in mind about voiding the warranty. at least check it out so you know where you stand if you decide to go the .5 route

hope this helps

P4Killer

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Just to say, wiring to .5 ohms might work and if you have enough electrical to keep the voltage from dropping you should be ok. if you're only pushing 1600 or so it wont require that much electrical. but my point here is this:

wiring down to .5 might work , but it will put a larger strain on the amp and more importantly it might VOID the warranty, and if the amp does fail at .5 ohm you might be sol. you might very well be fine running the amp like that, but its just something to keep in mind about voiding the warranty. at least check it out so you know where you stand if you decide to go the .5 route

hope this helps

P4Killer

right now my electrical is not all that stock batt/alt and the big 3 in 4 gauge. i dont want to wire anything to .5, you said it will stress out my electrical system, that true? thanks.

iDA-X200/Clarion EQS746

RF T500-1bd

(2) 12" RF HX's

Kicker 350.4

Alpine & Polk Speakers

Stock electrical

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right now my electrical is not all that stock batt/alt and the big 3 in 4 gauge. i dont want to wire anything to .5, you said it will stress out my electrical system, that true? thanks.

It will stress out the amp, as im sure that amp is rated at 1ohm stable. so if you wire down to .5 ohm it will not only require more elctrical but also strain your amp. My point was if you run at .5 ohm you could break the amp. it might go into to protect which is fine but that means your pushing things too far.

so if you continually put a higher strain on your amp it will eventually fail and maxxsonics might not honor the waranty if they knew your running at .5

i was just saying , just so you know before you run off putting your amp at .5 ohm, it could cause the amp to shut off, eventually break and if it does you might be sol. the reason why the amp is rated at 1ohm stable and not .5 ohm stable is because its not really built for that kind of strain. so it might work it might not- try it and see, i dont reccomend running it like that on a daily basis unless you a) have really good electrical or B ) can afford to replace / get it fixed if it decides to crap out.

Edited by P4killer_

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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