raytard Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 the thing is, the spark plug isnt instant. it takes a few hours of riding for it actually to set in. the plug is kinda like your oil dipstick. you know you put the right amount of oil in there, you just wanna check and make sure a month down the road. you kinda have to go by the seat of your pants and how its running to tune it, and hope it ends up in the right spot. I've built and played with everything from 2 stroke r/c cars to gopeds to dirtbikes and quads and even 2 stroke boats, and if there is anything i've learned its that there is no foolproof way of tuning, and even if you get it perfect, if you go out tonight when its cold out you'll be off again and have to richen it up... Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 hmm wow. i never knew that. that explains why when i changed the high screw a little (1/4 turn at a time) then rode it up and down the block at WOT, the spark plug looked exactly the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 yea, its not an instant indicator. the only time it can be is if you run waaaay too rich, the plug will actually be wet...and the motor wont be working well at all. you kinda have to play with it, but in all honesty dont be scared if you find the screws are at drastically different settings. i know with gopeds i kinda just put them both all the way in, backed low out 1.5 and high out 2.25 and then tuned from there (and sometimes ended up with like 1 on the low and 5 on the high...) weather, humidity, gas octane, the exhaust pipe, barometric pressure, elevation, all cause changes to the exact fine tuning. Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddemon0308 Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 to add onto what raytard has told you.. what i was doin with my nitro truck ( pretty well the same thing ) get it started and have it warmed up and up to normal operating temp. before you start adjusting anything. go to the low end first and have it set so that you can open it wide open without it bogging or sputtering. if its to lean it will bog and if its to rich it will do the same thing. then once that is good you can set the high speed now if its in a spot you can reach safely while driving you can go for a drive and adjust it till it pulls hard and hits max RPMS ( or sounds like its about to blow ) and then try and find the sweet spot by going by 1/8 turns in and out to see what is better. and its a 2 stroke engine you always want a little bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 to add onto what raytard has told you.. what i was doin with my nitro truck ( pretty well the same thing ) get it started and have it warmed up and up to normal operating temp. before you start adjusting anything. go to the low end first and have it set so that you can open it wide open without it bogging or sputtering. if its to lean it will bog and if its to rich it will do the same thing. then once that is good you can set the high speed now if its in a spot you can reach safely while driving you can go for a drive and adjust it till it pulls hard and hits max RPMS ( or sounds like its about to blow ) and then try and find the sweet spot by going by 1/8 turns in and out to see what is better. and its a 2 stroke engine you always want a little bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. can the low screw help the bike idle better? because it cant idle at all as of right now but drives decently fine. edit: oh yea and when i get the bike to the best settings that i can, will there be smoke coming out? because theres absolutely none the way it is now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddemon0308 Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 yes adjusting the low end needle should help with the idle.. mabey you have to add more oil to the gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 You need to clean your carb and all the jets.. everything. Take it to a pro to have this done as setting idle/run jets can bit a bit of a pain and you dont want to burn the motor up... MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brewer_brewer Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 easiest way to bump the power up on that will be to put the thinnest head gasket you possibly can the thinner you get it, the more compression the motor will make also, do some research on the coil. if you can find a way to push more power through the coil, you can open the gap up on the spark plug. which will create a better stronger spark. then you can start dumping more fuel into it. edit: once you get it making a lil more power, then you can throw a bigger sprocket on the crank. with more power, it will accelerate about the same as it does now but your top end will be alot faster REFS http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/itrader.php?u=2026 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/44535-official-brewer-brewer-feedback/page__p__625998__hl__brewer__fromsearch__1entry625998 "you're not allowing natural selection to work, you're like the guy that invented the seatbelt" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abaddon Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I used to ride motocross and play with motors... Spark plugs come with a white colored electrode like that brand new. When they get a creamy milkshake color going to em, that means it's a little rich. You'll usually foul out a plug if it gets bad enough. A fouled out plug could make the bike start harder, run more sluggish and sometimes die or won't start at all. That's usually when it turns visibly brown. I'd say you're a little too lean, so add a little bit more oil so you don't lock the motor up! A little more is better than not enough because plugs are cheaper than motors and after all, it's a 2-smoke! 2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71 2 12" Kicker CVX's Audiopipe AP15001d Stinger SR80 Isolator with DieHard 1200CCA battery Streetwires 0awg Secondary - 1998 Ford Expedition XLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VeRMaxT Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Haha my friend has the same motorbike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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