Which subs to get

[boomin]

ive already got the box for the AQ, and the kicker box is a generic kicker one (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2-KICKER-DS12L7-L7-12-Car-Subwoofers-Subs-BOX_W0QQitemZ390079742880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item5ad29083a0)

and for amps, both are new and same price im looking at eD 9.1 (1200 RMS) and kicker zx1000.1 (birthsheets usually rate about 1200 RMS though)

[Termin8r]

ive already got the box for the AQ, and the kicker box is a generic kicker one (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2-KICKER-DS12L7-L7-12-Car-Subwoofers-Subs-BOX_W0QQitemZ390079742880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item5ad29083a0)

and for amps, both are new and same price im looking at eD 9.1 (1200 RMS) and kicker zx1000.1 (birthsheets usually rate about 1200 RMS though)

Prefab boxes and being loud, normally do not go together. My formula for building a loud system is as follows...

Decide what you going after, SPL, SQ or a little of both.

Choose subwoofer(s) that best fit your above choice(compare there TS specs to determine compatibility)

Determine which enclosure would best meet your end goal. For spl, ported, 4th, 6th, 8th order bp or for all around sql performance a t line box works well.

Your vehicle is part of the enclosure, build it(your enclosure) as such.

Build the right box for your car and the bass will come no matter what sub you use.

Normally tiny enclosures will produce tiny results.

Keep panel resonance down to a minimum to achieve a better tl score.

My last spl build I used 500lbs. of concrete and 1000lbs. of mdf, 2x4's, screws, glue etc.

[boomin]

My enclosure is not a cheap prefab, its a custom built one by a reputable shop around my area.

to find out my enclosures cu. feet. i simply multiply L*W*H?

being that i paid so much to have this box custom made, i would really prefer to keep it....it fits perfect in my trunk and is super solid and well built (ported, 3/4 MDF)

Edited April 10, 2010 by boomin

[Termin8r]

My enclosure is not a cheap prefab, its a custom built one by a reputable shop around my area.

to find out my enclosures cu. feet. i simply multiply L*W*H?

being that i paid so much to have this box custom made, i would really prefer to keep it....it fits perfect in my trunk and is super solid and well built (ported, 3/4 MDF)

Ok, not knocking you or anything just here to help.

Yes, multiply L*W*H in inches and divide by 1728(inches in one foot cubed) to get how many cubic feet your enclosure is. This will not account for bracing or speaker volume. Which way do your speakers face(forward, back, up etc)?

Edited April 10, 2010 by Termin8r

[Termin8r]

Ok, not knocking you or anything just here to help.

Yes, multiply L*W*H in inches and divide by 1728(inches in one foot cubed) to get how many cubic feet your enclosure is. This will not account for bracing or speaker volume. Which way do your speakers face(forward, back, up etc)?

Any pics of your setup?

[Cashdollar2009]

Any pics of your setup?

You also have to factor in the thickness of the wood. Boomin, get us some pictures, and take some measurements. Box dimensions, wood thickness, double baffled? Port opening height/width/depth. We can figure out tuning and give you a little better of an idea as to how anything will sound in it.

[bassl0va]

how much louder will the L7's be than the AQ? <---In identical boxes, theoretically 0.6db

is my box sufficient?

u think it will be loud in my car, or should i get another setup elsewhere?<---depends on what you call loud? It's also near impossible to give you a db number.

and my budget for overall upgrade is like $500, so if i buy the AQ for 200 i have ~$300 for an amp.

how can i use that other battery? Run 4 gauge to it from stock battery (keep new one in trunk) than from there run 2 more power wires to sub/speaker amps?<---put buss bars on the second battery(fused of course) and run the front battery to the 2nd battery, then from the second battery to the amp.

^I have answered some up here

[boomin]

Ok, not knocking you or anything just here to help.

Yes, multiply L*W*H in inches and divide by 1728(inches in one foot cubed) to get how many cubic feet your enclosure is. This will not account for bracing or speaker volume. Which way do your speakers face(forward, back, up etc)?

It's cool...good formula im going to go measure in a min, but im pretty sure its about 2 cubic feet ima double check.

heres a pic currently....in the box is a 12" sub for reference.

[Twistedchild420]

Don't debate this any longer...get the AQ brah

[boomin]

^I have answered some up here

thanks for answering those, really helpful. So now im thinking the kickers are out of the question.... half a dB louder for $300 more and less SQ...no way im doing that haha

i understand its impossible to give a dB number, I just want to know if i will be expecting 3x louder than my alpine setup, or a slightly louder boost (like 2 dB)

Now on another forum, I've been told to just upgrade the front battery (underhood) to a group 34 high quality battery (yellow top, kinetik, ect) and leave it at that....will what you suggested have the same affect (2 batteries, one underhood one in trunk), or would i be better off with 1 "legit" battery under the hood?