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Battery Isolator Question


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SO i was considering bat options etc etc. And mixing wet cell bats w/ dry cell ie:. Marine Deep Cycles under the hood, and AGM in the back.. isnt really good for the bats.

But then again MOST people actually do mix bats when they add a kinetik or w/e AGM style bat they keep the stock wet cell under the hood so.. how harmful is it?

and does adding a battery isolator fix this issue.. because the bats are separated..?

I know isolators are designed to keep the front bat separate from the back ie:. so your car audio doesnt kill the starting bat. but then does this mean that the starting bat cant supply any power for the amp at all..?

Idk just thinking but random stuff, some body hit me wit sum knowledge :P

P4Killer_.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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the way they are set up is you are suppose to connect a wire from the isolator to you ignition. so when the car is in the "start" position, there is current flowing through, and when just "accessories" or when the key isnt in the ignition, the rear battery is isolated from the front.

wizv.jpg

200a alt. by Excessive Amperage

hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear

1/0awg + big 3

SAZ 3000D

HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm

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dont get them. when the back battery dies and the isolator switches it to the front battery, the alt charges an extremely dead battery (the back one) and that puts a shitton of stress on the alternator. keep doing this over and over and your alternator will be dead.

plus isolators are "meant" for car thats play their systems with the car off.

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I thought about getting one too, but I dont listen to my system with the car off. So no point.

2006 Nissan Z Track.

My Feedback Thread

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DCSig.jpg

i used to think a band pass was something you were around your neck or something.

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