Skullz Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Get a second battery for the back and that should help in slowing the voltage drop for now, and then plan on a nice h/o alt down the road as funds open up. http://www.remybattery.com/Departments/Extreme-Performance-Batteries/Deka-INTIMIDATOR-Battery.aspx Quote 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Where is your ground at? Seat bolt? Body? Frame? Quote 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluX Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 So, today, I went to my truck to crank it up and the battery was dead. I jumped it off and got it to crank up. I turned the gain down to nominal power and turned the LPF to 100. I turned the MX on and noticed a big difference from the sub (sounds like its barely playing without the MX on). I rode around for about an hour with no more dimming problems. The sub sounds great. I love having a system again, and hopefully there won't be anymore issues. I'm getting a constant 14.1V from the battery, even with music playing. I took out my head unit and all wiring is intact. Until further notice! I think I might have an idea why the battery died: I was tuning my amp without the car on, but in accessory mode. Think that may be it? Quote BluX 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Mach 5 MJ-18 (4 Ohm) Alpine MRP-M1000 Alpine 9813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluX Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Where is your ground at? Seat bolt? Body? Frame? In the cargo area of my truck, there are 4 latches that are bolted down to the body of the truck. I took one of them off, scraped off the paint underneath, then put the bolt back through the ground terminal and fastened it. Quote BluX 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Mach 5 MJ-18 (4 Ohm) Alpine MRP-M1000 Alpine 9813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluX Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 (edited) On the way to work today, I drove for 30 minutes, no dimming, no loss of power when driving, its great! No problems on the way back home from work either. I love my system and I'm glad to finally have one after 3 years of being bump-less... It's nice to finally be back. Edited April 27, 2010 by BluX Quote BluX 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Mach 5 MJ-18 (4 Ohm) Alpine MRP-M1000 Alpine 9813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluX Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 (edited) This is why you don't get Home Depot to cut your wood. I had drawn out how I wanted the cuts on the sheet of MDF, they were so bad, that on the piece of wood on the side of the box had a foot long cut into the middle of it, like WTF, really? So, I had to redo every single cut... Luckily 5/7 pieces of the wood were oversized and not undersized. Still, what I don't get is that they have a wall saw that has rollers and a laser that guides the cuts and everything. This piece of equipment had to cost at least $5 grand! Ridiculous... This is during box construction. The box specs are 4.5 cubic feet after all displacement, tuned to 30Hz. It is my first flush mount, double baffle install. Bracing consists of 7 10.5" 2x4s. There is a ton of glue inside of the box, it's completely sealed, but I felt that the box could have been built better. If Home Depot hadn't fudged up every single cut, then I wouldn't have had to re-trim everything with a borrowed table saw. Some of the cuts were 1/2 an inch too short, so I had to find a way to make everything work. Luckily, it wasn't too bad. I definitely learned a lot of things, one being DO NOT LET HOME DEPOT CUT YOUR WOOD! I'm testing everything out for the meantime, but this weekend, the box will be reglued inside and out to cover any possible leaks, slightly modified by trimming excess wood on the side of the port, spray painted black inside of the port, and covered in carpet. Overall, I'm very satisfied with my install. Edited April 27, 2010 by BluX Quote BluX 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Mach 5 MJ-18 (4 Ohm) Alpine MRP-M1000 Alpine 9813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sick916 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 did you already fix the problem? ive noticed that with alpine HUs you sometimes need to run a direct power line to the constant 12v i usually use 8g, at least this was the case for my cda9813/9815/7897/ even the newer cda105, they all did this in my camaro and corolla every now and then but in both my friends with civcs it was a constant problem, i never had this problem with any other manufacture Quote 1996 Camaro RS Rockford Fosgate BD1000.1 Rockford Fosgate 400a4 Old Skool 2x 12" TSW3001-D4 Pioneer Subs Pioneer deh-p980bt Yellow Top Primary Battery 1.5 Diesel Audio Cap<Its just there to impress the females with shiny things Kinetik HC800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sick916 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 i should also note that with these cars the camaro and one of the civics had aftermarket 4ohm speakers and the camaro stopped doing it even without the larger wire when i installed my 400a4 Quote 1996 Camaro RS Rockford Fosgate BD1000.1 Rockford Fosgate 400a4 Old Skool 2x 12" TSW3001-D4 Pioneer Subs Pioneer deh-p980bt Yellow Top Primary Battery 1.5 Diesel Audio Cap<Its just there to impress the females with shiny things Kinetik HC800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sick916 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 So, today, I went to my truck to crank it up and the battery was dead. I jumped it off and got it to crank up. I turned the gain down to nominal power and turned the LPF to 100. I turned the MX on and noticed a big difference from the sub (sounds like its barely playing without the MX on). I rode around for about an hour with no more dimming problems. The sub sounds great. I love having a system again, and hopefully there won't be anymore issues. I'm getting a constant 14.1V from the battery, even with music playing. I took out my head unit and all wiring is intact. Until further notice! I think I might have an idea why the battery died: I was tuning my amp without the car on, but in accessory mode. Think that may be it? sorry for the 3rd post but yes playing your system with the car off will kill your battery very quick, unless you have kinetics then its really bad for your batteries health, ask me how i know Quote 1996 Camaro RS Rockford Fosgate BD1000.1 Rockford Fosgate 400a4 Old Skool 2x 12" TSW3001-D4 Pioneer Subs Pioneer deh-p980bt Yellow Top Primary Battery 1.5 Diesel Audio Cap<Its just there to impress the females with shiny things Kinetik HC800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluX Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 sorry for the 3rd post but yes playing your system with the car off will kill your battery very quick, unless you have kinetics then its really bad for your batteries health, ask me how i know I'm pretty sure that was the entire problem that I had. Once I got my ride jumped off and charged fully, the problem didn't come back. The radio didn't reset itself or anything. Everything seems to be fine now. We'll see how it goes. Quote BluX 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Mach 5 MJ-18 (4 Ohm) Alpine MRP-M1000 Alpine 9813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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