Team_DC-Derrick Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Both Nick and Rusty are great people, Nick runs FI and rusty runs DC.. I personally went with DC and have never had a problem with anything at all, ships fast and always had time to answer any questions when i called Rusty. Honestly, I would say DC and save up for the 5s but thats just me The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 I just have to add that regardless of your options, you are going to see constant fluctuation in your voltage while playing music. Different frequencies put different levels of stress on your supply. Maintaining a 13.8+ is easy with enough amperage to back you up (not voltage) with the right songs. I said it was possible, not likely. And you will not notice a difference in the fluctuation unless you play for long periods of time to the point your batteries drain. ALL of the bigger systems on one alternator rely on the extra batteries for storage. The more you have, the longer you can play with little voltage drop (from peak charge, not regulated alternator voltage). You also have to remember that every battery you put in also puts more strain on the alternator, so you'll need higher amperage alternators to keep them going. The alt is mainly there to recharge them and keep a constant supply of amps going to it, not to run a system. You will be fine with your first setup you listed. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 I just have to add that regardless of your options, you are going to see constant fluctuation in your voltage while playing music. Different frequencies put different levels of stress on your supply. Maintaining a 13.8+ is easy with enough amperage to back you up (not voltage) with the right songs. I said it was possible, not likely. And you will not notice a difference in the fluctuation unless you play for long periods of time to the point your batteries drain. ALL of the bigger systems on one alternator rely on the extra batteries for storage. The more you have, the longer you can play with little voltage drop (from peak charge, not regulated alternator voltage). You also have to remember that every battery you put in also puts more strain on the alternator, so you'll need higher amperage alternators to keep them going. The alt is mainly there to recharge them and keep a constant supply of amps going to it, not to run a system. You will be fine with your first setup you listed. thanks for the whole explanation. I never COMPLETELY understood that until now. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.