Audiopipe AP1500d On the way!

[Mureta]

So after my Fosgate 500a2 went out, (after making a brand new box for my JL 10w3v2's) i have been searching and researching for a new amp.

Apparently the power from the 500a2 wasn't enough for the 2 10w3v2's, which lead to it frying. So i had to upgrade.

Just purchased a 1 x Audiopipe AP15001D 1500W Mono Class D Amp w/Remote Bass Control (AP15001D) = $144.95

Hopefully 1500 watts will take care of the JL's.

Any thoughts? I am open for all kinds of critique. Anything to learn more is helpful.

[JCiarlino]

So after my Fosgate 500a2 went out, (after making a brand new box for my JL 10w3v2's) i have been searching and researching for a new amp.

Apparently the power from the 500a2 wasn't enough for the 2 10w3v2's, which lead to it frying. So i had to upgrade.

Just purchased a 1 x Audiopipe AP15001D 1500W Mono Class D Amp w/Remote Bass Control (AP15001D) = $144.95

Hopefully 1500 watts will take care of the JL's.

Any thoughts? I am open for all kinds of critique. Anything to learn more is helpful.

Not true.

But the Audiopipe is a really good budget amp.

[El1T3Bass]

nice amp, i have it right now... looking to upgrade..

get rid of the jl's i take on jl's

[superdave07]

They are good amps for the money. However i dont think your old amp not being enough power caused it to crap out. I've never known not having enough power to hurt a sub woofer. Good luck with your new purchase let us know how you like it!

[sewerman]

no matter if its under power or not, if its a dirty clipped signal it will blow it.

[Mureta]

They are good amps for the money. However i dont think your old amp not being enough power caused it to crap out. I've never known not having enough power to hurt a sub woofer. Good luck with your new purchase let us know how you like it!

I'm confused then, if the amp being powered to hard to the 10's didn't cause it to fry then what did? If i have a problem with my setup i want to get it fixed before i place a new amp in there. I have had this same setup though for the pass 6 years or so, and the only thing i have changed out is the speakers. In the first set of problems i found that my speakers had split my box, and i needed to make a new box. after making a new box to spec and the speakers sounding great, my amp started heating up after a few second of play. then it ultimatly just fried, all the smoke in it came out.

So i have bought a new amp. But i have all my power wires upgraded and have had them upgraded for like i said 6 years. I checked the ground and it is fine and still has the vasoline i placed on the connection to keep it oxy-free. I have a large 100 amp fuse at the battery, and have a power distrobution block with seperate smaller fuses going to the amps, a 60amp fuse going to the 500a2 that never burnt or went out, and 4 30amp fuses going to 4 160.2 fosgates that power my highs and mids. (I know i should probably switch it out with 2 - 4 channel amps but those fosgates last forever!)

So someone said to get rid of the 10" JL's? What size/models should i go with that the new AP15001d handle? I'm anxious to see what i can put in my truck.

[BJD3]

I'm confused then, if the amp being powered to hard to the 10's didn't cause it to fry then what did? If i have a problem with my setup i want to get it fixed before i place a new amp in there. I have had this same setup though for the pass 6 years or so, and the only thing i have changed out is the speakers. In the first set of problems i found that my speakers had split my box, and i needed to make a new box. after making a new box to spec and the speakers sounding great, my amp started heating up after a few second of play. then it ultimatly just fried, all the smoke in it came out.

So i have bought a new amp. But i have all my power wires upgraded and have had them upgraded for like i said 6 years. I checked the ground and it is fine and still has the vasoline i placed on the connection to keep it oxy-free. I have a large 100 amp fuse at the battery, and have a power distrobution block with seperate smaller fuses going to the amps, a 60amp fuse going to the 500a2 that never burnt or went out, and 4 30amp fuses going to 4 160.2 fosgates that power my highs and mids. (I know i should probably switch it out with 2 - 4 channel amps but those fosgates last forever!)

So someone said to get rid of the 10" JL's? What size/models should i go with that the new AP15001d handle? I'm anxious to see what i can put in my truck.

The amp won't "work harder" when you install more power hungry subwoofers. The amp is an idiot. It doesn't know how much powa the speaker wants. It will output the same thing it was before if nothing else has changed. If the subs you put in presented a lower ohm load to the amp, that is something that could have caused it. And if the gain was set too high over time it damaged the amp until eventually it failed. If you crank bass boosts, or cranked the gain so that the new subs would be "louder" that could do it as well.

It could even be nothing you did and the amp just failed. Electronics in general do have a nasty habit of going belly up when you least expect it.

At least that's what I've gotten from a couple months of reading various forums. Anyone else can chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

[Mureta]

The amp won't "work harder" when you install more power hungry subwoofers. The amp is an idiot. It doesn't know how much powa the speaker wants. It will output the same thing it was before if nothing else has changed. If the subs you put in presented a lower ohm load to the amp, that is something that could have caused it. And if the gain was set too high over time it damaged the amp until eventually it failed. If you crank bass boosts, or cranked the gain so that the new subs would be "louder" that could do it as well.

It could even be nothing you did and the amp just failed. Electronics in general do have a nasty habit of going belly up when you least expect it.

At least that's what I've gotten from a couple months of reading various forums. Anyone else can chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

Ahh well i did crank the bass boost, but i thought it was true bass boost on the fosgates, and not gain boost as most other amps are. So i thought it would be ok, i guess not.

[BJD3]

Ahh well i did crank the bass boost, but i thought it was true bass boost on the fosgates, and not gain boost as most other amps are. So i thought it would be ok, i guess not.

If the gain was set correctly in the first place, then using the knob shouldn't have caused your problem. (And IIRC, gain knobs are what you want) A gain knob will boost the entire range making it so that all frequencies are "represented equally" (I don't know how better to explain it). What a bass boost will do is boost certain frequencies. So what would happen is with a gain knob, when you set your gains you put the knob all the way up, and find the point at which you aren't clipping. The knob will then only attenuate that. In this case the knob really does act like a bass volume knob. however with a boost knob, what will happen is when you set the amp up, even if the knob is all the way up, if the sine wave you use isn't the frequency the amplifier boosts, then your knob will boost the signal past the clipping point. And you won't realize it because that frequency isn't being represented.

I don't think I explained it well, and honestly, again, this could be a case of the blind leading the blind. I THINK this is how it works, but I'm not the most knowledgeable person. I don't know how else to explain it.

[Loudcivic]

you will like your new amp mine is running very good. i like this amp alot