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no? so there is not amp compatable .25 ohm

no. most people on this forum have no concept of this idea

the amount of amperage required to feed an amp at that ohm load would be massive and require many large batteries for capacity. then on top of that you would need alts that could charge fast enough to keep up with the draw.

if your voltage so much as thinks about dropping the whole thing is fucked.

stick to one ohm

and i suggest you learn what series/parallel wiring is

like he said^

Edited by IH8PunkRok

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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someone correct me if im wrong. cant he do series/parallel and get 1 ohm?

i have them run parallel now on audiobhan1200dmono ugraded to 2200 and it does fine and dont run hot not even warm should i keep it hooked up or what? i dont want to burn up the amp

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no. most people on this forum have no concept of this idea

the amount of amperage required to feed an amp at that ohm load would be massive and require many large batteries for capacity. then on top of that you would need alts that could charge fast enough to keep up with the draw.

if your voltage so much as thinks about dropping the whole thing is fucked.

stick to one ohm

and i suggest you learn what series/parallel wiring is

like he said^

well thats what i am asking you guys if thats ok

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-wire the individual coils of one sub in series

-do this for all 8 subs

-now connect all subs in parallel

gives you a one ohm load

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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what subs are these, the Hifonics Hifi 12" D4 right? 300 rms a piece and there's 8, so 2400 rms. maybe one of those rf 2500 will do or Hifonics HFi2500D

An Audio Technix 18" Strato on a Kicker KX120.2

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I've bought from JBurt09, OrionStang, bcpballer64, LoudNLow931, audioman21, and CJ18 from here (as refs)

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what subs are these, the Hifonics Hifi 12" D4 right? 300 rms a piece and there's 8, so 2400 rms. maybe one of those rf 2500 will do or Hifonics HFi2500D

X2 on the t2500 but wouldn't you get significant impedence rise? I know it varies per frequency, but still

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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X2 on the t2500 but wouldn't you get significant impedence rise? I know it varies per frequency, but still

impedance rise does not factor into a daily driver enough to worry about it

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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no. most people on this forum have no concept of this idea

the amount of amperage required to feed an amp at that ohm load would be massive and require many large batteries for capacity. then on top of that you would need alts that could charge fast enough to keep up with the draw.

if your voltage so much as thinks about dropping the whole thing is fucked.

stick to one ohm

and i suggest you learn what series/parallel wiring is

like he said^

not that I agree with running at such a low ohm load, but how much current is required at the input of the amp is based on efficiency and output, not

what ohm load it is driving.

True, most amps are not as efficient as the load drops, but it is not enough difference to require another bank of batteries or additional alt. If it is, that would be an amp to stay away from.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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