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you really think that amp is 90% efficient? and why the hell did you replace the fuses with bigger ones? they were sized for 30 for a reason.

because the 30 amp fuses blew. and i have had the amp with the 40 amp fuses for 2 months now and i have had no problems at all.

My Car Audio Setup:

Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone)

Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1)

Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge

Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge

Alternator: Stock 90 amp

Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery

Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale

HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP

Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp

Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial

Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial

Home Audio Setup:

Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)

2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears.

Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985

Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver

Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993

Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me

I do free box designs if anyone is interested

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because the 30 amp fuses blew. and i have had the amp with the 40 amp fuses for 2 months now and i have had no problems at all.

do whatever you want to that amp, you're never gonna change the fact that its a kenwood...and i'd like to see this "birthsheet" that said 13xxrms at whatever ohm load. and proof that its 90% efficient. sorry but i think you're talking out of your ass with those figures.

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x2 i doubt that kenwood does rated rms.

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

1j1450.png

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x2 i doubt that kenwood does rated rms.

this kenwood amp is cea certified!! so why would it not put out its rated power?

My Car Audio Setup:

Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone)

Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1)

Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge

Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge

Alternator: Stock 90 amp

Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery

Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale

HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP

Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp

Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial

Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial

Home Audio Setup:

Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)

2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears.

Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985

Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver

Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993

Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me

I do free box designs if anyone is interested

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There is a reason they kept blowing!!I believe the manftr. Knows what the amp can handle,upgrading the fuses is just asking for a problem,but for that amp I'd say an mtx 7500 haha.

it kept blowing with 30 amp fuses then when i tried using 40 amp fuses it worked fine and it has been working perfect for 2 months without overheating. and is an mtx 7500 any good?

My Car Audio Setup:

Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone)

Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1)

Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge

Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge

Alternator: Stock 90 amp

Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery

Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale

HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP

Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp

Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial

Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial

Home Audio Setup:

Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)

2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears.

Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985

Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver

Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993

Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me

I do free box designs if anyone is interested

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Because 90A of current will not give you 1500+ @ 1 ohm. My hifonics uses 140A to make 1600 so do the math.

i replaced the fuses and it has been working fine with the 40 amp fuse and i did notice a difference.

My Car Audio Setup:

Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone)

Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1)

Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge

Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge

Alternator: Stock 90 amp

Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery

Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale

HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP

Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp

Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial

Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial

Home Audio Setup:

Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)

2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears.

Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985

Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver

Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993

Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me

I do free box designs if anyone is interested

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it kept blowing with 30 amp fuses then when i tried using 40 amp fuses it worked fine and it has been working perfect for 2 months without overheating. and is an mtx 7500 any good?

you should still never put higher rated fuses in something because the 30A fuses that it CALLS for blows. thats just askin for trouble.

its rated for 30A because thats ALL that should go through that circuit at one time. If more goes through than it should it means there is a problem, could be short or something but whatever, because more current is flowing through that circuit than the wires/load can take.

DSBP_blue.jpg

parton226

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