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Multiple runs of 2/0


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I understand the "ideal" method would be to have two runs of BOTH positive and negative to the rear battery, but would there be anything catastrophic I would be missing if I just double-grounded the rear battery? I have enough wire for two runs to the rear for power, but would it be necessary to pay the extra cash to get another 30 feet to make two more runs of negative to the rear as well? Again, I understand ideal, but would it be a big car audio NO-NO to have my battery in the back with two runs for a ground as well as having two runs up front in my big three for the negative terminal as well? Sorry if my question comes off as confusing, I just can't seem to find anyone going into much detail in some of the build-logs or other threads... Thanks ahaed for the responses!

By the way, I am running a Crescendo 3k @ 1-ohm off of an xs d2400, off of the stock alt and looking for a ho alt maybe by the end of summer.

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

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You do NOT have to have multiple number or NEGATIVE runs from the front to back, or even 1. You can ground them all to the frame if you prefer.

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06 Mini Cooper S

Sundown, SoundQubed

Cadence, XS Power

151s Sealed

155s Outlaw

Windshield @ 37hz

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yep, it doesnt matter much. i have a run from the front to the rear battery bank AND one wire grounded to my frame in the trunk.

it just never hurts to have more "direct" connections to the front

8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee :DClick to see J00bles' Youtube Channel

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It never hurts but it all comes down to whats in the wallet. If you don't have the extra dough to drop, don't drop it. If you think about it, your car is a big tin can.. the electricity will make its way to the amp. If later on, you wanted to add another run, then you could.

1985 Chevy Silverado Black and Silver SBC 350/700r4

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