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programing is the easy part man you will c once u have it hooked up.

2002 ford focus hatch

pioneer DEH-P8400bh

infinity kappa 6.5 components front and rear

XS Power D1200

Shuriken BT-100

audioque 120.4

2 15 inch audioque HDC3 D2

2 audioque 2200d

big 3

mechman 220a alt with external regulator

479-418-3056

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programing is the easy part man you will c once u have it hooked up.

Yea i am going to read of it a couple of times before i do it so i am not trying to read it and program it at the same time.

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little advise to help u. lets say u wanna go to option 6. press it 1.2.3.4.5.6 then press and hold. dont press and hole on six or u will go to option 5. make sense?

2002 ford focus hatch

pioneer DEH-P8400bh

infinity kappa 6.5 components front and rear

XS Power D1200

Shuriken BT-100

audioque 120.4

2 15 inch audioque HDC3 D2

2 audioque 2200d

big 3

mechman 220a alt with external regulator

479-418-3056

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Share on other sites

little advise to help u. lets say u wanna go to option 6. press it 1.2.3.4.5.6 then press and hold. dont press and hole on six or u will go to option 5. make sense?

Yea that makes sense. My buddy said its a lot easier then what it sounds like on paper.

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You guys keep saying don't use t-taps but no one said why. Do they come loose or something? On my first install that I just recently completed I only used one t-tap and that was on my ignition wire because it was so short and hard to get to the t-tap was way easier to do than strip the wire and solder.

Also someone said to disable NPC. I was going to program it to "on" later today should I just leave it off then? My main concern is the alarm going off when I'm not in range. I can't find anything in my manual about silencing the siren and have it still page me if something happens while its armed.(What I like to call beat down mode) :) Other than disconnecting my siren but I actually want the siren some times, I just wish sometimes I could arm the system and disable to siren going off.

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You guys keep saying don't use t-taps but no one said why. Do they come loose or something? On my first install that I just recently completed I only used one t-tap and that was on my ignition wire because it was so short and hard to get to the t-tap was way easier to do than strip the wire and solder.

On the 5101 and 5701 installs, both booklets said that T-Taps are ok to use on anything but ignition wires due to the heavy current but that's with remote start as well. I honestly don't see anything wrong with them, I didn't use them because I didn't want to use them on my truck as id rather use a method I trust more :)

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On the 5101 and 5701 installs, both booklets said that T-Taps are ok to use on anything but ignition wires due to the heavy current but that's with remote start as well. I honestly don't see anything wrong with them, I didn't use them because I didn't want to use them on my truck as id rather use a method I trust more :)

Never thought of that, so should I solder it for sure or can I get away with the t-tap? The alarm I installed is just temporary until I get enough money for something with more features, so I'm a little leery of making any permanent changes. I probably won't get a new one installed for 6 months or more.

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Never thought of that, so should I solder it for sure or can I get away with the t-tap? The alarm I installed is just temporary until I get enough money for something with more features, so I'm a little leery of making any permanent changes. I probably won't get a new one installed for 6 months or more.

Making your wiring connections

Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through

the vehicle. For instance, the red 12V constant input and the remote start igni-

tion wires are often routed together to the ignition switch harness. In order to

keep the wiring neat and make it harder to find, you may wish to wrap these

wires together in electrical tape or conceal them in tubing similar to what the

manufacturer used.

There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection - solder con nec-

tions and crimp connectors. When properly performed, either type of connection

is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your connections

or you use mechanical type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections

are mechanically sound and that they are insulated, especially when connecting

data lines in the vehicle.

Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insu-

lator. It often falls off in hot weather. Use good quality electrical tape or heat

shrink.

Never twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering. •

Never use “fuse taps”, as they can damage fuse box terminals. •

If you use tapping connectors such as T-Taps (not to be confused with Scotch-

Locks), avoid using them in higher-current applications (constant 12V, ground,

etc.) These connectors are inferior in quality and should be avoided.

That's what the books state. Honestly thou, strip about 1/2 and inch of insulation off the wire, poke a pick threw it and wiggle the pick to make a hole, on the wire your splicing into the line, strip about an inch of insulation, poke it through the hole you just made, twist it around the wire and tape. I ran across a pic how to on it, ill try to find it.

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12.gif

Strip back about an inch of insulation from the middle of the wire being tapped. Use some type of probe (a dental pick or a small flat head screwdriver) to separate the wire.

13.gif

14.gif

15.gif

Strip back an inch of insulation from the tapping wire, insert in the middle of the original wire, then twist them all together.

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