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Get as many amps as you can from an alternator, go for two of them. Then get maybe 4 D3100's.

1988 Honda City E

  • Big 3 in 1/0
  • Venom 6x9
  • Venom 6.5 Components
  • Response 4x100 midz and highs amp
  • Fusion NV 2500.1: STOLEN
  • 2 x 12 inch fusion nv subs
  • 10 inch 5 doller subs in my doors

PM me if you want help with electrical

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A single 300a alt and 3 d3100's should do the job. I would also do 3-4 runs of 1/0

i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?

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1st of all you wont see 4000w+, it just doesnt work like that. but 4 3100s + a good battery up front should be ok, assuming its a 1ohm load. a high amperage alt is always a good idea.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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1st of all you wont see 4000w+, it just doesnt work like that. but 4 3100s + a good battery up front should be ok, assuming its a 1ohm load. a high amperage alt is always a good idea.

Agreed...you'll be lucky to see 3500 outta em

<u>99 Jimmy SLT 4WD</u>

Systemless.

<u>99 Grand Prix GTP</u>

DC XL 12 on 1.5k tuned lowwwwww.

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Like stated before, only way you would see 8,600 watts is if after impedance rise your ohm load is below 2 ohms (strapped) and your voltage was above 14.4. There are alot of factors that you have to put into the equation.

i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?

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so what wattage will i see from one of these amps it says 4300 wrms at 14.4 volts????

1. music is dynamic and every tone will change how much power the amp puts out.

2. voltage drop, unless you want four 300amp alts and the 4 batts you will see voltage drop, ie. you wont be at 14.4v

3. impedance rise, normal rise can be 2-3x rise. so your 1ohm load becomes 3ohms. but thats only under the best circumstance, a test tone. just an example, at 40hz you see 2.5ohm. but at 50hz you see 5ohm. so since music has many different tones... get the idea?

dont get us wrong, these are not bad amps and you will see a lot of power out of them. car audio is just a LOT more complicated than "this amp does this power" or "this sub will be this loud". its like 2 + 2 = banana. (if that confuses you then you get the point) lol

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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