Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Quick question about distribution block


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm new on here, but been following Steve's videos etc. for a long time now. I'm on my second car audio build. I have 1 mono amp already installed for my subs (1550rms clarion) and a second amp that just arrived (4-channel jbl) with 4 speakers, to replace my stock crap speakers. To split the power wire to each amp from my capacitor I am getting a distribution block, but I am wondering what rating of fuses I need to put in the distribution block. My sub amp is 1550rms, and my speaker amp is 600rms.

I know my build is nothing crazy like all of you, but I'm going for clean and everyday driver, and I drive a LOT! Plus I'm still a student, and also I've still got mor eto learn about car audio, but i'm definitely getting there! thanks a lot for your help guys!

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lose the capacitor. First thing a lot of guys on the forum will tell you. get a deep cycle battery and for what your running a 200amp fuses will do just fine.

2 Fi BTL N2 18s Fully LoadedSundown Audio NS-1Kenwood 845 HU Clarion EQ4 Juicebox 3100sKnu Wire"Big 3"Mechman 270a156.3dBTeam GG.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lose the capacitor. First thing a lot of guys on the forum will tell you. get a deep cycle battery and for what your running a 200amp fuses will do just fine.

^ x2

i gotta x2 250.. so somewhere around that ballpark...

i got 1 250 in the front and the other in the back with my 2nd batt

:Satan Sings a Lulliby In My Ears Every Nite:- Lord Infamous

Pioneer Premier DEH-P500UB w/ ipod touch

Planet Audio BB215

Kicker zx1500.1

2 Jensen Audio 6.5s

2 Horns "in place for my 6x9. my port blows all my 6x9s out of place"

2 pyramid tweeters

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First lose the cap it just rapes your voltage . 2nd you dont need to fuse from your cap if you keep it to your amps i know i havn't for mine and i used to run three amps. Now i just run two my mono and my two channel. So just lose the cap go get a yellow top or if you want i have a redtop i can sell ya for cheap since i dont need it . and just use the distro without fuses and your good as long as you have a fuse up front your good to go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First lose the cap it just rapes your voltage . 2nd you dont need to fuse from your cap if you keep it to your amps i know i havn't for mine and i used to run three amps. Now i just run two my mono and my two channel. So just lose the cap go get a yellow top or if you want i have a redtop i can sell ya for cheap since i dont need it . and just use the distro without fuses and your good as long as you have a fuse up front your good to go

cool, that's what I figure too,(no need for fuses since my battery is fused already, and also losing the cap) but what do I put in the middle of the distrib. block, since the fuses fill the gap and make the connection? do I just get another type of distribution block without fuses or can I just run a tiny bit of wire to make the connection?

also, (i know it's been answered a lot on the forum but while you suggested it here goes):

-I listen to my music usually with the car ON, and don't often leave the car on accessory power and run my system. Is the deep cycle battery as a second battery the best choice? also I'm from Canada so it'd be hard for you to sell me that battery, but I would buy it if i lived closer lol. I can pick one up from Canadian Tire here, again names of good batteries would be appreciated.

also can you remind me what fuse rating to put for the 2 fuses on the +ve wire between batteries? thx.

Thanks a lot for the help, I really appreciate it! and although my build is nothing extreme, I'm taking pics this week and doing it right!

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

but what do I put in the middle of the distrib. block, since the fuses fill the gap and make the connection? do I just get another type of distribution block without fuses or can I just run a tiny bit of wire to make the connection?

Is the deep cycle battery as a second battery the best choice? also I'm from Canada so it'd be hard for you to sell me that battery, but I would buy it if i lived closer lol. I can pick one up from Canadian Tire here, again names of good batteries would be appreciated.

also can you remind me what fuse rating to put for the 2 fuses on the +ve wire between batteries? thx.

A lot of distro block don't have a fuseholder such as that one so that is what threw him off. :) But a 200 should get the job done just fine.

As for batteries, XS Power has amazing products, but in your budget, not so much. Search for names such as Kinetik, Shuriken, Deka, a Yellowtop, or even just google search. Check the classified sections on various audio forums as well. A lot of times you can scrape up some good deals! :good:

Some classifieds to check out: Here obviously, caraudioclassifieds.org, caraudio.com, realmofexcursion.com, a lot of times eBay gets the job done as well. Good Luck! :)

1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d

Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum.

First off, I am not going to get into the whole cap argument because it seems to start a pissing match. But to put it into simple terms, using them in a non spl system has its benefits and can act as a shock absorber. Hell, I may even add one in my system when I find a deal on one.

PS TJB- a cap does far from rape your voltage, its wired in parallel, not series lol, voltage will remain constant.

Whenever you fuse something on a wire, you're supposed to fuse for the wire itself, and not the amp. So in any case, if you're using a fuse on an 8 gauge wire, you would put an 8 0 amp fuse in place (for that's what most 8 gauge is rated at).

Good luck with your setup, mang.

Edited by finkster

DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active

Eclipse cd7000

I serve drunks for a living :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum.

First off, I am not going to get into the whole cap argument because it seems to start a pissing match. But to put it into simple terms, using them in a non spl system has its benefits and can act as a shock absorber. Hell, I may even add one in my system when I find a deal on one.

PS TJB- a cap does far from rape your voltage, its wired in parallel, not series lol, voltage will remain constant.

Whenever you fuse something on a wire, you're supposed to fuse for the wire itself, and not the amp. So in any case, if you're using a fuse on an 8 gauge wire, you would put an 8 0 amp fuse in place (for that's what most 8 gauge is rated at).

Good luck with your setup, mang.

thx guys.

I'm actually using 4 gauge everywhere. Should I be using 0 gauge to connect 2 batteries, and also to go from battery to the distr.block, then 4 gauge after? or can I get away with using 4 gauge from battery to dist. block, then 4 gauge to each amp? and again, 4 gauge wire would be 200a fuse x2 between batteries? sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I'm getting the proper fuse ratings, but I'm pretty good with connecting the rest.

as for the cap, it's small (only 3 farads) but i think I'm going to keep it AND buy a second battery, and put it after the 2nd battery. Although it may not do much, it still gives me a clear voltage reading. Unless anyone reeeally disagrees with this? (I have the cap why not use it, as long as it's not doing any damage to the system)

you guys are great help!

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont like caps with voltage meters because it takes away from what they are supposed to do. In this application i would say sure, ditch the cap.

Id recommend 1/0 for connecting the batteries, and also 1/0 going to the fuse block.

125 amps is the limit for 4 gauge.around 250 is the limit for 1/0 (cca at least).

so here you have it.

front bat---250afuse----------250afuse----rear batt.

rear batt--250afuse-----dblock---2 125a fuses-----amps.

DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active

Eclipse cd7000

I serve drunks for a living :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 1 Anonymous, 1307 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...