billy101 Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Hi I own a 2001 Impala LS. The front right door 6.75 speaker is blown....so are the rear deck speakers. The speakers in the door are...component? Is that the right word? The speaker and the tweeter are separate...the tweeter is to the left of the speaker, so basically two different speakers. (if that's right)...I'm looking to replace all 4 speakers in my car, the front door speakers and the rear 6x9s. If possible would like to stay under $150. I heard good things about powerbass for from component speakers but not sure and I know this forum is very good for these questions. I do not know how much power is going to each speaker, is there a way to find out? My dad has a meter thing so that if you put it on the positive and negative lines it will tell you how many volts...idk if theres a way to change to watts? thank you for help. greatly appreciate it. Quote First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Yep, separate mids and tweeters are known as components. I'd say don't go for 6x9s in the rear. Just a set of 6.5" coaxials will be just as good, probably better. You could stay under $150, although you won't get anything toooo special for that. If you are upgrading the speakers you should get a amp for them, the head unit will not put out enough power to drive them properly. Also, you would need to measure voltage and amperage across say a 4 ohm load (as that is most likely what your upgrade speakers will be) and then multiply the two numbers. You will probably find it is like 15 watts, better off getting a nice 4 channel. Quote My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy101 Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 Yep, separate mids and tweeters are known as components. I'd say don't go for 6x9s in the rear. Just a set of 6.5" coaxials will be just as good, probably better. You could stay under $150, although you won't get anything toooo special for that. If you are upgrading the speakers you should get a amp for them, the head unit will not put out enough power to drive them properly. Also, you would need to measure voltage and amperage across say a 4 ohm load (as that is most likely what your upgrade speakers will be) and then multiply the two numbers. You will probably find it is like 15 watts, better off getting a nice 4 channel. Well, there are already 6x9s in the rear, so just dropping them in won't be a problem...Thing is that I got the car for a birthday present, and $150 is what my mom said she would give me to change the speakers that were blown before I even got the car. I don't currently have a job, but I will be getting a job soon. So no cash flow atm... Thing is....how would I use an amplifier with the stock head unit? My dad has a Alpine Flex5 MRP-F257 amplifier that I could possibly use. The multimeter I am using is pretty similar to the Fluke 87-5. It might be an older version, but pretty damn close. what setting would I set the multimeter to in order to get the voltage and amperage? Appreciate the help. Quote First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craracer05 Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 First thing we need to know is if you have a small silver amp between your 6x9s in the trunk check for that and let me know. Quote 2007 Scion Tc- T1500.1bdcp & t600.4, Three P3D212's Ported at 40hz, T2 6.5" Components, Rockford Marine 8" coax's. Kinetik khc1400 in back, Kicker 0 gauge 1999 Cherokee- Rockford Prime Amps 300.4 & 500.1,Big 3, Rockford 6.5"Comp.s and 6.5" 2ways, 2 12" P2's Ported basic winter beater 2002 Mustang Convt.-T1500.1bd & 400.4, 3 P3D210's IB, JBL components all the way around,Rockford 4 gauge, Big 3, Kinetik khc800 in back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy101 Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 First thing we need to know is if you have a small silver amp between your 6x9s in the trunk check for that and let me know. I do. But I have done the bypass on it so that the speakers are powered by the head unit. I have the faulty amplifier in it. I did this bypass which has made the speakers sound SO much better. http://impalahq.naioa.com/HowTo/Amp_bypass.html Quote First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 (edited) I'm running a Atomic 3k and 2 channel off a 20 year old head unit. So I'm sure you can hook up a 4 channel to your stock one. Especially since you say there is a amp in there already. Swap that out for somthing decent and it will sound many times better than the head unit amp. Especially with new speakers. Oh and use AC voltage first and put the probes across the speaker terminals. Then use AC current and play the same tone/clip of music (tones are better) and put it in series with the speaker (unhook one of the speaker wires, place one probe on each of the now open terminals) then multiply the numbers you got together. I bet it is going to be about 15 watts RMS. Edited August 29, 2010 by bassl0va Quote My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy101 Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 I'm running a Atomic 3k and 2 channel off a 20 year old head unit. So I'm sure you can hook up a 4 channel to your stock one. Especially since you say there is a amp in there already. Swap that out for somthing decent and it will sound many times better than the head unit amp. Especially with new speakers. Oh and use AC voltage first and put the probes across the speaker terminals. Then use AC current and play the same tone/clip of music (tones are better) and put it in series with the speaker (unhook one of the speaker wires, place one probe on each of the now open terminals) then multiply the numbers you got together. I bet it is going to be about 15 watts RMS. How would I go about hooking up an amplifier to it? I have bypassed the amplifier in the trunk because the 104 model (faulty) suppressed the bass, meanwhile the 103 amp (correct amp) worked fine. It had line level signals going to amp, but now that I bypassed it the speakers are getting speaker level signal directly from the head unit. Would I be able to hook up for instance...Front Left + and - to an input on amplifier, and then have a Front Left + and - output, but with increased power? Quote First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 with a $150 budget you dont want to look at amps. having a factory amp doesnt help you at all for this. you will need to get a low output converter, RCAs, power and ground wire. thats going to be half the budget rite there. here are a couple speakers you can look at. they shouldnt be too bad. http://www.woofersetc.com/p6725/DSH216--MB-Quart-65"-2Way-Discus-Component-System.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p9053/S693--Powerbass-6"-x-9"-210W-3Way-Coaxial-Speakers.htm Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 How would I go about hooking up an amplifier to it? I have bypassed the amplifier in the trunk because the 104 model (faulty) suppressed the bass, meanwhile the 103 amp (correct amp) worked fine. It had line level signals going to amp, but now that I bypassed it the speakers are getting speaker level signal directly from the head unit. Would I be able to hook up for instance...Front Left + and - to an input on amplifier, and then have a Front Left + and - output, but with increased power? As Skittles said. Unless you can increase your budget then you will have a hard time getting an amp, wire, speakers and all the other stuff. But when you do get an amp you can't just plug speaker wires into the RCA sockets. That's what the converter that Skittles was talking about is for. You plug the speaker wires in one side and a set of RCAs into the other. I reckon just get some nice speakers for the time being and save for a sutable amp. Unless you can get more money now of course. Quote My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy101 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Alright, well complete change of plans.... I am still getting new speakers...I need 6.5" Component speakers, and 6x9 Coaxial. Preferably under $150. I hope to be getting a new radio with christmas money that I receive. I may be able to talk my dad into letting me use the amplifier and subwoofer from his truck, since we are going to be selling the truck pretty soon. He has an Alpine Flex5 MRP-257 amplifier, and a Bazooka tube with an 8" subwoofer I think it might be 50 watts? or may be 150 watts, not 100% sure. I know it's nothing, but hey it's a first system and I will probably be getting something else in the near future. You've always got to start somewhere. So, now I'm going to be making a list of what I would need for this. I know a radio...but I don't know which one specifically I want. I've narrowed it down to three I believe, but if you want you can push me towards something else. Here are the three. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?g=300&cc=01&compareItems=01|130P5200HD&compareItems=01|105KDAHD69&compareItems=01|500IDAX303 I'm liking the JVC Arsenal because of the 5volt preamp voltage, the 7 EQ bands,HD Radio built in, 2 year warranty. itunes tagging.... I also really liked the Alpine because it had a little pocket where you could store your ipod in, behind the display...but that means no CD, but really...how often do I listen to CDs.. NO HD Radio Built in. 2volt preamp, 6 channel outs. USB is on rear....but comes with cable, bluetooth built in, plus I really LOVE alpine because my dad had an alpine in his truck for 7 years and worked fine until the screen went. still played music though! The pioneer is nice too, with built in hd radio, no bluetooth but idk if that one would do it for me.. Anyways. If you think of one that might be better, let me know. Needs to be steering wheel control capable, iPod, at least 4 preamp outputs, pretty big screen..dont wanna squint. or if you think one of my choices are good. let me know. really appreciate all this help. thank you all. Quote First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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